Synonymous with international banking, Zurich (Zürich or, more familiarly, Züri) has a financial and cultural importance that belies its modest size. The largest city in Switzerland, Zurich promotes itself as ‘Downtown Switzerland'. The historic centre is compact enough to be explored on foot.
Zurich is located at the centre of the Zurich canton, on Switzerland's central plain, with the elevation rising towards the south and the Alps. Positioned at the northern tip of the Zürichsee (Lake Zurich), lakeside promenades and expensive houses are prominent and can be spotted along both shores. The city's most familiar sites are, without a doubt, the Fraumünster and Grossmünster churches, which solemnly face each other across the River Limmat. The Old Town spans this river, and some of the most interesting lanes and buildings are clustered along its banks. The nearby Lindenhof was once the site of a Roman customs post and is a good vantage point. Surrounding the Old Town, the Kreis (districts) of Zurich are arranged clockwise around the city centre, with the numbers corresponding to the last digit in the postcode. In summer, the view of the city is beautiful, with the lake reflecting the mountains and clear blue sky. The winter snowfalls bring a magic of their own.
Zurich dates its origins from 15BC, when the Roman customs post of Turicum was founded. By the 10th century, the town had acquired the status of a city. It was at the centre of the Swiss religious Reformation in the 16th century, under the leadership of Huldrych Zwingli. His motto ‘pray and work' was to have a profound effect on this diligent city, which, by the 19th century, had grown into the commercial and financial centre of Switzerland. The modern Zurich is a city of bankers in a country of banks. This concentration of wealth can most readily be seen along the Bahnhofstrasse, flanked by lime trees. All the major banks have a presence here, notably at the Paradeplatz, where elegant shops and designer boutiques line the street, interspersed with trendy bars and attractive cafés, stretching from the Hauptbahnhof right down to Lake Zurich.
Other riches lie in the city's excellent universities - Zurich is a powerhouse for research, with public-private partnerships leading to innovations both in design and the high-tech sector. The exceptional infrastructure and delightful atmosphere have ensured Zurich's role as a major conference and incentive destination. The city also has a strong cultural presence - over 30 museums, art galleries, auction houses, the opera, orchestras and the Schauspielhaus theatre, as well as a number of performance spaces that encourage contemporary artists in all media.
Zurich ranks among the cities with the highest standard of living in the world. (In one particular ranking, it was top of the list every year from 2001 to 2006.) The high standard of living is evident in the many fashionable and enjoyable bars, cafés and restaurants that fill the Old Town. The ambience is heightened by the large swathes on either side of the River Limmat that are pedestrian-only areas. For those who find the comfortable burgher lifestyle a little too tame, there are always alternative places to seek out. This is, after all, the city that saw the birth of the artistic movement of Dadaism - the antithesis of conformity.
Zurich is located at the centre of the Zurich canton, on Switzerland's central plain, with the elevation rising towards the south and the Alps. Positioned at the northern tip of the Zürichsee (Lake Zurich), lakeside promenades and expensive houses are prominent and can be spotted along both shores. The city's most familiar sites are, without a doubt, the Fraumünster and Grossmünster churches, which solemnly face each other across the River Limmat. The Old Town spans this river, and some of the most interesting lanes and buildings are clustered along its banks. The nearby Lindenhof was once the site of a Roman customs post and is a good vantage point. Surrounding the Old Town, the Kreis (districts) of Zurich are arranged clockwise around the city centre, with the numbers corresponding to the last digit in the postcode. In summer, the view of the city is beautiful, with the lake reflecting the mountains and clear blue sky. The winter snowfalls bring a magic of their own.
Zurich dates its origins from 15BC, when the Roman customs post of Turicum was founded. By the 10th century, the town had acquired the status of a city. It was at the centre of the Swiss religious Reformation in the 16th century, under the leadership of Huldrych Zwingli. His motto ‘pray and work' was to have a profound effect on this diligent city, which, by the 19th century, had grown into the commercial and financial centre of Switzerland. The modern Zurich is a city of bankers in a country of banks. This concentration of wealth can most readily be seen along the Bahnhofstrasse, flanked by lime trees. All the major banks have a presence here, notably at the Paradeplatz, where elegant shops and designer boutiques line the street, interspersed with trendy bars and attractive cafés, stretching from the Hauptbahnhof right down to Lake Zurich.
Other riches lie in the city's excellent universities - Zurich is a powerhouse for research, with public-private partnerships leading to innovations both in design and the high-tech sector. The exceptional infrastructure and delightful atmosphere have ensured Zurich's role as a major conference and incentive destination. The city also has a strong cultural presence - over 30 museums, art galleries, auction houses, the opera, orchestras and the Schauspielhaus theatre, as well as a number of performance spaces that encourage contemporary artists in all media.
Zurich ranks among the cities with the highest standard of living in the world. (In one particular ranking, it was top of the list every year from 2001 to 2006.) The high standard of living is evident in the many fashionable and enjoyable bars, cafés and restaurants that fill the Old Town. The ambience is heightened by the large swathes on either side of the River Limmat that are pedestrian-only areas. For those who find the comfortable burgher lifestyle a little too tame, there are always alternative places to seek out. This is, after all, the city that saw the birth of the artistic movement of Dadaism - the antithesis of conformity.
Sightseeing Overview
Most of Zurich's sights lie within the compact area on either side of the River Limmat, between the Hauptbahnhof and Lake Zurich. The churches and burgher houses of the Old Town are clustered here, as are the elegant shops along Bahnhofstrasse. The Baroque Rathaus (Town Hall) and Zurich's most impressive churches, the Grossmünster, Fraumünster and the city's oldest, St Peterskirche (its clock face is the largest in Europe), all lie within a short distance of the River Limmat, near to where it opens onto the lake.
Tourist Information
Zürich Tourismus
Bahnhofbrücke 1 (in the Hauptbahnhof)
Tel: (044) 215 4000.
Website: www.zuerich.com
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0800-2030, Sun 0830-1830 (May-Oct); Mon-Sat 0830-1900, Sun 0900-1830 (Nov-Apr).
Bahnhofbrücke 1 (in the Hauptbahnhof)
Tel: (044) 215 4000.
Website: www.zuerich.com
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0800-2030, Sun 0830-1830 (May-Oct); Mon-Sat 0830-1900, Sun 0900-1830 (Nov-Apr).
Passes
The ZürichCARD (available for 24 or 72 hours) allows unlimited travel, free admission to over 40 museums, reduced admission to the zoo, complimentary welcome drink at over 20 restaurants and a half-price guided stroll in the old town. Cards can be purchased at the train stations and many hotels.
Grossmünster
The twin towers of this attractive cathedral (the largest in Zurich and the city's symbol) face onto the River Limmat and are best seen from Rathausbrücke. Originally endowed by Charlemagne, parts of this minster date back to the 11th and 13th centuries, notably the crypt, which is the largest of its kind in Switzerland. Recent archaeological discoveries suggest the existence of a Roman cemetery underneath the church. There are remains of a romanesque cloister, 12th-century statuary and stained glass in the choir by Augusto Giacometti (Alberto's cousin). The Karlstrum tower has 187 steps; there is no lift.
Grossmünsterplatz
Tel: (044) 252 5949.
Website: www.kirche-zh.ch
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (15 Mar-31 Oct); daily 1000-1700 (1 Nov-14 Mar). Karlstrum tower: Mon-Sat 100-1700; Sun 1115-1600. Cloister: Mon-Fri 0900-1800 (15 Mar-31 Oct); Mon-Fri 100-1700 (1 Nov-14 Mar).
Free admission (charge for tower).
Fraumünster
Although this beautiful church dates from the ninth century (when it was a Benedictine abbey), it is often the five 20th-century stained-glass windows in the choir by Marc Chagall (1970) that attract visitors. These glass works of art are best seen in the morning light. The church itself was begun in the 12th century, although the undercroft contains the original abbey crypt. The Fraumünster spire is an elegant and notable landmark dating from 1732. The rest of the church is predominantly gothic, although the choir is romanesque. The site was originally endowed by Charlemagne's grandson, the German king Ludwig, in 853 and later became the church of the Zurich noblewomen's convent. The stained glass windows in the north transept are by Alberto Giacometti's cousin, Augusto.
Am Münsterhofplatz
Tel: (044) 211 4100.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1800, Sun 1115-1800 (Apr-Oct); Mon-Sat 1000-1600, Sun 1115-1600 (Nov-Mar).Free admission.
Kunsthaus Zürich (Zurich Art Gallery)
This is the city's most important art gallery, boasting a collection of paintings and sculptures by Swiss and international masters, covering most periods from medieval times but predominately from the 19th and 20th centuries. Two of Monet's Water Lilies paintings and the largest collection of Edvard Munch's works outside Norway can be found here, as well as many works by Füssli and Hodler and important works by Expressionists like Kokoschka, Bechmann and Corinth. There are also good collections of photography, the Dadaists and Alberto Giacometti, as well as an important library. Tours are available in English if reserved beforehand.
Heimplatz 1
Tel: (044) 253 8484.
Website: www.kunsthaus.ch
Opening hours: Tues-Thurs 1000-2100, Fri-Sun 1000-1700.
Admission charge.
Schweizerisches Landesmuseum (Swiss National Museum)
The Swiss National Museum lies on a landscaped triangle between the Hauptbahnhof and the Limmat and Sihl rivers, and has fulfilled the role of the nation's attic for over a century. Special exhibits in this castle-like museum supplement the permanent display of items related to Switzerland and Swiss culture. These include not only paintings and sculpture but also weapons, flags, watches, clocks, tools, toys and prehistoric objects.
Museumstrasse 2
Tel: (044) 218 6511.
Website: www.musee-suisse.ch
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1100-1700.
Admission charge.
Zunfthaus zur Meisen (‘zur Meisen' Guild Hall)
The ‘zur Meisen' Guild Hall, opposite the Fraumünster, has exhibits of 18th-century Swiss pottery and china. The elegant rococo galleries are an appropriate setting for the beautifully decorated porcelain figurines that were produced in Kilchberg-Schooren, Zurich and other porcelain and pottery factories. The building itself, built in 1757, expresses a baroque aesthetic and is considered to be the most beautiful of all the Zürich guild houses.
Zoo Zürich
The open, park-like enclosures of the Zurich zoo house some 1,500 animals from points near and far, in areas that replicate the animals' natural environments. The zoo's animals draw crowds during feeding times (details are available on the website). A complex duplicates Madagascar's Masoala rainforest. There are several good restaurants at the zoo, including the Altes Klösterli, Siesta and Outpost.
Zürichbergstrasse 221
Tel: (044) 254 2505 or 0848 966 983.
Website: www.zoo.ch
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (Mar-Oct); daily 0900-1700 (Nov-Feb).
Admission charge.
Botanischer Garten (Botanical Gardens)
Zurich University's Botanical Gardens make for a wonderful place to get away from it all. Inside are over a million plants that comprise the university's botanical collection, representing a number of different ecosystems from tropical rainforests to alpine meadow flowers.
Zollikerstrasse 107
Tel: (044) 634 8461.
Website: www.unizh.ch/bguz
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0700-1900, Sat and Sun 0800-1800 (Mar-Sep); Mon-Fri 0800-1800, Sat and Sun 0800-1700 (Oct-Feb).
Free admission.
Üetliberg
At an elevation of 871m (2,857ft) this is the tallest point in the city, with views over Zurich, the lake and (on a clear day) the Alps. The Üetliberg is part of the Albis ridge. There is a one-and-a-half to two-hour walk to Felsenegg, from where a cable car connects to Adliswil station, which has connections on S-Bahn line S4 to the city. A 24-hour train/cable car pass is available. The SZU Sihltal Zürich Uetliberg Bahn (website: www.szu.ch), S10, goes to the top of the city's peak (departing from many stations, including the Hauptbahnhof). A restored 1920s electric railway car can also be hired for groups. The hotel and restaurant Uto Kulm is an excellent venue from which to look down upon the city.
The restaurants have been grouped into four different pricing categories:
$$$$ (over SFr120)
$$$ (SFr80 to SFr120)
$$ (SFr50 to SFr80)
$ (up to SFr50)
The prices quoted above are for a three-course meal, including VAT and service charge. Besides VAT, a compulsory 15% service charge is included in the cost of all restaurant bills. Diners also tend to round the bill up to the nearest SFr10.
The open, park-like enclosures of the Zurich zoo house some 1,500 animals from points near and far, in areas that replicate the animals' natural environments. The zoo's animals draw crowds during feeding times (details are available on the website). A complex duplicates Madagascar's Masoala rainforest. There are several good restaurants at the zoo, including the Altes Klösterli, Siesta and Outpost.
Zürichbergstrasse 221
Tel: (044) 254 2505 or 0848 966 983.
Website: www.zoo.ch
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (Mar-Oct); daily 0900-1700 (Nov-Feb).
Admission charge.
Botanischer Garten (Botanical Gardens)
Zurich University's Botanical Gardens make for a wonderful place to get away from it all. Inside are over a million plants that comprise the university's botanical collection, representing a number of different ecosystems from tropical rainforests to alpine meadow flowers.
Zollikerstrasse 107
Tel: (044) 634 8461.
Website: www.unizh.ch/bguz
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0700-1900, Sat and Sun 0800-1800 (Mar-Sep); Mon-Fri 0800-1800, Sat and Sun 0800-1700 (Oct-Feb).
Free admission.
Üetliberg
At an elevation of 871m (2,857ft) this is the tallest point in the city, with views over Zurich, the lake and (on a clear day) the Alps. The Üetliberg is part of the Albis ridge. There is a one-and-a-half to two-hour walk to Felsenegg, from where a cable car connects to Adliswil station, which has connections on S-Bahn line S4 to the city. A 24-hour train/cable car pass is available. The SZU Sihltal Zürich Uetliberg Bahn (website: www.szu.ch), S10, goes to the top of the city's peak (departing from many stations, including the Hauptbahnhof). A restored 1920s electric railway car can also be hired for groups. The hotel and restaurant Uto Kulm is an excellent venue from which to look down upon the city.
The restaurants have been grouped into four different pricing categories:
$$$$ (over SFr120)
$$$ (SFr80 to SFr120)
$$ (SFr50 to SFr80)
$ (up to SFr50)
The prices quoted above are for a three-course meal, including VAT and service charge. Besides VAT, a compulsory 15% service charge is included in the cost of all restaurant bills. Diners also tend to round the bill up to the nearest SFr10.
Gastronomic
Blaue Ente
One of Zurich's best restaurants, the Blaue Ente (Blue Goose) was named after an inn established in 1675 by an ancestor of one of the owners. The restaurant is about 1km (0.6 miles) south of the city centre, forming part of a trendy shopping centre based on a converted mill on the east shore of Lake Zurich. With its whitewashed bricks, glass and bits of machinery from the original mill, the Blaue Ente draws a cosmopolitan crowd from advertising, the media and the arts. Duck in many forms is the speciality of the house. One can also enjoy a menu that changes every five weeks, for which the chef experiments with seasonal ingredients. Reservations are recommended.
Seefeldstrasse 223
Tel: (01) 388 6840.
Website: www.blaue-ente.ch
Price: $$$
One of Zurich's best restaurants, the Blaue Ente (Blue Goose) was named after an inn established in 1675 by an ancestor of one of the owners. The restaurant is about 1km (0.6 miles) south of the city centre, forming part of a trendy shopping centre based on a converted mill on the east shore of Lake Zurich. With its whitewashed bricks, glass and bits of machinery from the original mill, the Blaue Ente draws a cosmopolitan crowd from advertising, the media and the arts. Duck in many forms is the speciality of the house. One can also enjoy a menu that changes every five weeks, for which the chef experiments with seasonal ingredients. Reservations are recommended.
Seefeldstrasse 223
Tel: (01) 388 6840.
Website: www.blaue-ente.ch
Price: $$$
Kronenhalle
Many of the 20th century's great artists, like Stravinsky, Brecht, Joyce, Nureyev, Deneuve and Saint Laurent, have enjoyed the wonderful food at the Kronenhalle. The fin de siècle decor and ambience is perfect for displaying the wonderful collection of 20th-century art originally formed by Hulda Zunsteg, and now owned by her son, Gustav, including works by Giacometti, Picasso, Miro, Chagall and Matisse. This is a restaurant whose quality attracts many regular diners. There is nothing new or startling on the menu, just a mix of excellently prepared local and international favourites. Although the service is first rate, the ambience is laid-back rather than formal, so clientele preferring sausages and beer rather than delicacies are treated with the same respect. The banquet room, holding 50-60 people, carries on the same ambience as the restaurant. The restaurant bar with its art deco overtones is an excellent place to unwind; the brass lamps were designed and built by the Giacometti brothers.
Rämistrasse 4
Tel: (044) 262 9900.
Website: www.kronenhalle.com
Price: $$$$
Many of the 20th century's great artists, like Stravinsky, Brecht, Joyce, Nureyev, Deneuve and Saint Laurent, have enjoyed the wonderful food at the Kronenhalle. The fin de siècle decor and ambience is perfect for displaying the wonderful collection of 20th-century art originally formed by Hulda Zunsteg, and now owned by her son, Gustav, including works by Giacometti, Picasso, Miro, Chagall and Matisse. This is a restaurant whose quality attracts many regular diners. There is nothing new or startling on the menu, just a mix of excellently prepared local and international favourites. Although the service is first rate, the ambience is laid-back rather than formal, so clientele preferring sausages and beer rather than delicacies are treated with the same respect. The banquet room, holding 50-60 people, carries on the same ambience as the restaurant. The restaurant bar with its art deco overtones is an excellent place to unwind; the brass lamps were designed and built by the Giacometti brothers.
Rämistrasse 4
Tel: (044) 262 9900.
Website: www.kronenhalle.com
Price: $$$$
Petermann's Kunststuben
Horst Petermann, born in Hamburg, is one of Switzerland's greatest living chefs, especially amongst devotees of French cuisine. The restaurant, 6km (4 miles) south of the city centre on Lake Zurich's eastern shore (the ‘Gold Coast'), is in a house constructed in 1873. This was an art gallery when Petermann purchased it and his own fine collection of pictures are set off both in the restaurant with its dark grey walls and in a gallery alongside. As with the other great Zurich restaurants, the Kunststuben has played host to many heads of state, major artists and businesspeople. Petermann believes in a hands-on approach and leads his small team rather than just supervising. His wife takes care of clients, decoration and service; there are always fine floral arrangements and the placing of tables allows for privacy. Three-, five- and seven-course menus are offered. Specialising in cuisine du marché (dishes prepared daily by the chef using whatever food he finds fresh in the market), the daily changing menu can include rabbit terrine with black truffles or lobster with artichokes and almond oil. Entrées, desserts and cheeses are of the same high quality. The wine cellar is exceptional and every effort is made to match wines to the dishes; many wines can also be purchased by the glass. During the summer, guests can dine outside in the intimate garden. Reservations essential.
Seestrasse 160, Küsnacht
Tel: (044) 910 0715.
Website: www.kunststuben.com
Price: $$$$
Horst Petermann, born in Hamburg, is one of Switzerland's greatest living chefs, especially amongst devotees of French cuisine. The restaurant, 6km (4 miles) south of the city centre on Lake Zurich's eastern shore (the ‘Gold Coast'), is in a house constructed in 1873. This was an art gallery when Petermann purchased it and his own fine collection of pictures are set off both in the restaurant with its dark grey walls and in a gallery alongside. As with the other great Zurich restaurants, the Kunststuben has played host to many heads of state, major artists and businesspeople. Petermann believes in a hands-on approach and leads his small team rather than just supervising. His wife takes care of clients, decoration and service; there are always fine floral arrangements and the placing of tables allows for privacy. Three-, five- and seven-course menus are offered. Specialising in cuisine du marché (dishes prepared daily by the chef using whatever food he finds fresh in the market), the daily changing menu can include rabbit terrine with black truffles or lobster with artichokes and almond oil. Entrées, desserts and cheeses are of the same high quality. The wine cellar is exceptional and every effort is made to match wines to the dishes; many wines can also be purchased by the glass. During the summer, guests can dine outside in the intimate garden. Reservations essential.
Seestrasse 160, Küsnacht
Tel: (044) 910 0715.
Website: www.kunststuben.com
Price: $$$$
Business
Haus zum Rüden
Located in a building first mentioned in records in 1295, the Haus zum Rüden (House of the Hound) is closely related to the Constaffel Society, the noblemen and knights who elected the mayor in the Middle Ages. The restaurant, which has three rooms (two of which are solely used for private functions), is today one of the best venues for business meetings, cocktail parties and other events. The main dining room, the Restaurant Gothic Room, which can cater for up to 70 people, is located on the first floor and boasts 11m- (36ft-) long beams. The Constaffelsaal on the second floor, which can be hired by 10-40 people, has early baroque stucco decorations and the adjacent Rüdenstübli, with room for 30-150 people, has stucco work and rococo frieze dating from 1773. Dishes are traditional and definitely cuisine de marché (using fresh produce bought locally in the market). Reservations are required.
Limmatquai 42
Tel: (044) 261 9566.
Website: www.hauszumrueden.ch
Price: $$$$
Located in a building first mentioned in records in 1295, the Haus zum Rüden (House of the Hound) is closely related to the Constaffel Society, the noblemen and knights who elected the mayor in the Middle Ages. The restaurant, which has three rooms (two of which are solely used for private functions), is today one of the best venues for business meetings, cocktail parties and other events. The main dining room, the Restaurant Gothic Room, which can cater for up to 70 people, is located on the first floor and boasts 11m- (36ft-) long beams. The Constaffelsaal on the second floor, which can be hired by 10-40 people, has early baroque stucco decorations and the adjacent Rüdenstübli, with room for 30-150 people, has stucco work and rococo frieze dating from 1773. Dishes are traditional and definitely cuisine de marché (using fresh produce bought locally in the market). Reservations are required.
Limmatquai 42
Tel: (044) 261 9566.
Website: www.hauszumrueden.ch
Price: $$$$
Hummerbar
The St Gotthard Hotel has been in the Manz family since 1899 and its Hummerbar (Lobster Bar) has long been one of the city's top dining places. The setting, like the hotel, is fin de siècle with rich scarlet decor, candles and much polished wood. All shellfish is flown in fresh every day and alongside the simple methods of preparation, one can enjoy more elaborate fare. In August, the city's Swedes go there for crayfish. Besides an excellent grill, the hotel also offers diners the Bouillabaisse restaurant, where superb fish dishes are served in an art nouveau setting complete with pianist. Champagne is the drink of choice.
Hotel St Gotthard, Bahnhofstrasse 87
Tel: (01) 227 7700.
Website: www.hotelstgotthard.ch
Price: $$$$
The St Gotthard Hotel has been in the Manz family since 1899 and its Hummerbar (Lobster Bar) has long been one of the city's top dining places. The setting, like the hotel, is fin de siècle with rich scarlet decor, candles and much polished wood. All shellfish is flown in fresh every day and alongside the simple methods of preparation, one can enjoy more elaborate fare. In August, the city's Swedes go there for crayfish. Besides an excellent grill, the hotel also offers diners the Bouillabaisse restaurant, where superb fish dishes are served in an art nouveau setting complete with pianist. Champagne is the drink of choice.
Hotel St Gotthard, Bahnhofstrasse 87
Tel: (01) 227 7700.
Website: www.hotelstgotthard.ch
Price: $$$$
Veltliner Keller
Incredibly, the Veltliner Keller has been a restaurant since 1551. Housed in a building next to St Peter's church and employed as a wine cellar since 1325, the site has always been used to store the Italian-Swiss Valtellina wines that were carried over the Alps to Zurich. The ancient carved wood interior is based on Graubündner Alpine culture (the most south-eastern part of the country, whose canton capital is St Moritz), with wooden panelling made from arve mountain pine, which only grows in Switzerland. The menu is seasonal and includes both Swiss and Italian classic dishes.
Schlüsselgasse 8
Tel: (01) 225 4040.
Website: www.veltlinerkeller.ch
Price: $$$
Incredibly, the Veltliner Keller has been a restaurant since 1551. Housed in a building next to St Peter's church and employed as a wine cellar since 1325, the site has always been used to store the Italian-Swiss Valtellina wines that were carried over the Alps to Zurich. The ancient carved wood interior is based on Graubündner Alpine culture (the most south-eastern part of the country, whose canton capital is St Moritz), with wooden panelling made from arve mountain pine, which only grows in Switzerland. The menu is seasonal and includes both Swiss and Italian classic dishes.
Schlüsselgasse 8
Tel: (01) 225 4040.
Website: www.veltlinerkeller.ch
Price: $$$
Trendy
Blindekuh
This is a truly unique restaurant, conceived and run by blind and visually impaired staff, where diners eat in pitch-blackness to simulate the experience of being blind. The blind waiters and waitresses guide customers to their seats and no one ever sees the interior of the restaurant or even their own food. Although it serves as a way to bring the problems of visually impaired people to the public's attention, the restaurant could not have become such a resounding success (with waiting lists several months long), without providing its guests with a high quality menu.
Muhlebachstrasse 148
Tel: (044) 421 5050.
Website: www.blindekuh.ch
Price: $$
This is a truly unique restaurant, conceived and run by blind and visually impaired staff, where diners eat in pitch-blackness to simulate the experience of being blind. The blind waiters and waitresses guide customers to their seats and no one ever sees the interior of the restaurant or even their own food. Although it serves as a way to bring the problems of visually impaired people to the public's attention, the restaurant could not have become such a resounding success (with waiting lists several months long), without providing its guests with a high quality menu.
Muhlebachstrasse 148
Tel: (044) 421 5050.
Website: www.blindekuh.ch
Price: $$
Blu
Housed in a former 19th-century industrial laundry building, with a completely modernised, minimalist interior where sparkling chrome and stark concrete contrast with the warm colours of the timber flooring, this restaurant attracts a young, achingly cool crowd. It is optimally located on the banks of the Zurichsee, so guests can look out through the glass walls at a breathtaking view of the marina and the mountains beyond. From a culinary perspective, Blu serves a menu of delicious Italian favourites, and places heavy emphasis on the use of healthy, fresh, seasonal ingredients.
Seestrasse 457
Tel: (01) 488 6565.
Website: www.blu-restaurant.ch
Price: $$$
Housed in a former 19th-century industrial laundry building, with a completely modernised, minimalist interior where sparkling chrome and stark concrete contrast with the warm colours of the timber flooring, this restaurant attracts a young, achingly cool crowd. It is optimally located on the banks of the Zurichsee, so guests can look out through the glass walls at a breathtaking view of the marina and the mountains beyond. From a culinary perspective, Blu serves a menu of delicious Italian favourites, and places heavy emphasis on the use of healthy, fresh, seasonal ingredients.
Seestrasse 457
Tel: (01) 488 6565.
Website: www.blu-restaurant.ch
Price: $$$
Restaurant LaSalle
LaSalle is at the centre of the regenerating West Zurich area of urban development. The restaurant, which was originally a shipbuilding warehouse, has been innovatively converted: the building was gutted and then an enormous glass box, which houses the dining area, was suspended inside the external redbrick structure. There are two theatres and a jazz bar located in the same complex, and the surrounding area boasts dozens of trendy new bars and clubs. The menu is predominantly French and Italian, with a seafood focus, and is produced with commendable ecological consciousness.
Schiffbaustrasse 4
Tel: (044) 258 7071.
Website: www.lasalle-restaurant.ch
Price: $$$
LaSalle is at the centre of the regenerating West Zurich area of urban development. The restaurant, which was originally a shipbuilding warehouse, has been innovatively converted: the building was gutted and then an enormous glass box, which houses the dining area, was suspended inside the external redbrick structure. There are two theatres and a jazz bar located in the same complex, and the surrounding area boasts dozens of trendy new bars and clubs. The menu is predominantly French and Italian, with a seafood focus, and is produced with commendable ecological consciousness.
Schiffbaustrasse 4
Tel: (044) 258 7071.
Website: www.lasalle-restaurant.ch
Price: $$$
Budget
Café Bar Odéon
Now an ultra-trendy café and bar, this is the famed coffeehouse from 1912 where the pre-revolutionary Lenin and other intellectuals met when they could not afford to heat their own rooms. Joyce and Einstein were also regular visitors, and Thornton Wilder, Mata Hari and Mussolini also visited. Now the crowd is counter-culture chic and in the evening, the Odéon attracts both singles and gays. The café section remains intimate and is decorated in art nouveau style with many banquettes and small private areas; there is also outdoor seating in the summer. It is still possible to enjoy fine pasta dishes and a daily lunch menu and desserts. There are also unusual dishes like ostrich stroganoff with spinach noodles and game dishes in the autumn. There is an ongoing campaign to regain the building next door, which is now a pharmacy. The Odéon is open late into the night.
Limmatquai 2
Tel: (01) 251 1650.
Website: www.odeon.ch
Price: $$
Now an ultra-trendy café and bar, this is the famed coffeehouse from 1912 where the pre-revolutionary Lenin and other intellectuals met when they could not afford to heat their own rooms. Joyce and Einstein were also regular visitors, and Thornton Wilder, Mata Hari and Mussolini also visited. Now the crowd is counter-culture chic and in the evening, the Odéon attracts both singles and gays. The café section remains intimate and is decorated in art nouveau style with many banquettes and small private areas; there is also outdoor seating in the summer. It is still possible to enjoy fine pasta dishes and a daily lunch menu and desserts. There are also unusual dishes like ostrich stroganoff with spinach noodles and game dishes in the autumn. There is an ongoing campaign to regain the building next door, which is now a pharmacy. The Odéon is open late into the night.
Limmatquai 2
Tel: (01) 251 1650.
Website: www.odeon.ch
Price: $$
Molino Zurigo
Italian restaurant Molino is ideally located on Limmatquai, offering a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. And the food is excellent. Some say the pizzas served here are the best in town, but the rest of the dishes on the menu are just as mouth-watering. Authentic Italian cooking at its best and at reasonable prices.
Limmatquai 16
Tel: (044) 261 01 17.
Website: www.molino.ch
Price range: $$
Italian restaurant Molino is ideally located on Limmatquai, offering a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. And the food is excellent. Some say the pizzas served here are the best in town, but the rest of the dishes on the menu are just as mouth-watering. Authentic Italian cooking at its best and at reasonable prices.
Limmatquai 16
Tel: (044) 261 01 17.
Website: www.molino.ch
Price range: $$
Restaurant Hiltl
The Bavarian Ambrosius Hiltl purchased the Vegetarierheim und Abstinez-Café (Vegetarians' Home and Teetotalers' Café) in 1907 and, with the aide of his wife, turned it into the Restaurant Hiltl. Today, the restaurant is run by Ambrosius' great-grandson, Rolf. The ground floor offers very relaxed dining around a circular central serving area, with a bar area beside it, while the first floor is more traditionally furnished, reflecting the early 20th-century beginnings. At lunch, the menu always includes 50 salads, and in the evening, besides salads, rösti and pasta dishes, the restaurant serves an Indian and Thai menu of 30 dishes, which are priced by weight. Desserts and cheeses are also excellent, and national and international newspapers are available.
Sihlstrasse 28
Tel: (044) 227 7000.
Website: www.hiltl.ch
Price: $
The Bavarian Ambrosius Hiltl purchased the Vegetarierheim und Abstinez-Café (Vegetarians' Home and Teetotalers' Café) in 1907 and, with the aide of his wife, turned it into the Restaurant Hiltl. Today, the restaurant is run by Ambrosius' great-grandson, Rolf. The ground floor offers very relaxed dining around a circular central serving area, with a bar area beside it, while the first floor is more traditionally furnished, reflecting the early 20th-century beginnings. At lunch, the menu always includes 50 salads, and in the evening, besides salads, rösti and pasta dishes, the restaurant serves an Indian and Thai menu of 30 dishes, which are priced by weight. Desserts and cheeses are also excellent, and national and international newspapers are available.
Sihlstrasse 28
Tel: (044) 227 7000.
Website: www.hiltl.ch
Price: $
Rheinfelder Bierhaus
One of Zurich's best beer halls, the Rheinfelder is located on the pedestrianised Marktplatz on the Niederdorf side of the River Limmat. The atmosphere is inviting, cheerfully encompassing all classes of society. Nevertheless, this is not a restaurant for people with lung problems or those trying to give up smoking. Standard beer hall food like sausages and liver are available. However, the specialities are recommended and include rindsfeffer (preserved beef stew with spätzli pasta) and ‘Schweins Cordon Bleu', a large pork fillet filled with ham and cheese, breaded and fried, and served with excellent French-fries. Occasionally, the Spanish/Romansch owners serve a special home-made paella, an unusual but excellent menu option.
Marktgasse 19
Tel: (044) 251 2991.
Price: $
One of Zurich's best beer halls, the Rheinfelder is located on the pedestrianised Marktplatz on the Niederdorf side of the River Limmat. The atmosphere is inviting, cheerfully encompassing all classes of society. Nevertheless, this is not a restaurant for people with lung problems or those trying to give up smoking. Standard beer hall food like sausages and liver are available. However, the specialities are recommended and include rindsfeffer (preserved beef stew with spätzli pasta) and ‘Schweins Cordon Bleu', a large pork fillet filled with ham and cheese, breaded and fried, and served with excellent French-fries. Occasionally, the Spanish/Romansch owners serve a special home-made paella, an unusual but excellent menu option.
Marktgasse 19
Tel: (044) 251 2991.
Price: $
Personal Recommendations
Adler's Swiss Chuchi
The wooden-panelled dining room of the Adler Hotel is located directly on Hirschenplatz, the Niederdorf's main square, on the east bank of the River Limmat. The restaurant offers a varied menu including veal escalope with ham and cheese, salmon basil-style with vegetable rice, catfish with tartar sauce or Tessin-style osso buco. However, the real reason for dining here is the many different and, possibly Zurich's best, versions of fondue and raclette (melted cheese usually served with ham and potatoes), with prices varying according to the number of ingredients and alcoholic additions.
Hirschenplatz
Tel: (044) 266 9696.
Website: www.hotel-adler.ch
Price: $$
The wooden-panelled dining room of the Adler Hotel is located directly on Hirschenplatz, the Niederdorf's main square, on the east bank of the River Limmat. The restaurant offers a varied menu including veal escalope with ham and cheese, salmon basil-style with vegetable rice, catfish with tartar sauce or Tessin-style osso buco. However, the real reason for dining here is the many different and, possibly Zurich's best, versions of fondue and raclette (melted cheese usually served with ham and potatoes), with prices varying according to the number of ingredients and alcoholic additions.
Hirschenplatz
Tel: (044) 266 9696.
Website: www.hotel-adler.ch
Price: $$
El Parador
Probably the best Spanish/Portuguese restaurant in the city, located just off the Limmatplatz, El Parador is known for its light and cosy atmosphere and attention to detail. First courses can include garlic soup and Spanish salads like salt cod with white beans. The paella and chicken with garlic and onions are wonderful but the real speciality is parrillada, an amazing mixed seafood grill. The staff offer a warm Spanish welcome and service to their guests. Closed Sunday (late August-late September) and Monday (mid-winter).
Luisenstrasse 43
Tel: (043) 366 8885.
Website: www.elparador.ch
Price: $$$
Probably the best Spanish/Portuguese restaurant in the city, located just off the Limmatplatz, El Parador is known for its light and cosy atmosphere and attention to detail. First courses can include garlic soup and Spanish salads like salt cod with white beans. The paella and chicken with garlic and onions are wonderful but the real speciality is parrillada, an amazing mixed seafood grill. The staff offer a warm Spanish welcome and service to their guests. Closed Sunday (late August-late September) and Monday (mid-winter).
Luisenstrasse 43
Tel: (043) 366 8885.
Website: www.elparador.ch
Price: $$$
Zeughauskeller
Built on the remains of an old armoury (zeughaus), originally constructed in 1487, the Zeughauskeller restaurant opened in 1927, when a new owner converted the building into the city's top restaurant and beer hall. Large stone pillars hold up the ornamental wooden-beamed ceiling, on which weapons from the Middle Ages to the present day are displayed. The decor is traditional, with large portraits of noblemen from the time of the medieval mercenaries and well-separated large tables that are shared, often leading to new friendships as discussions become all-inclusive. Besides classic dishes like Zurich-style kalbsgeschnetzeltes (sliced veal and mushrooms in a white wine sauce) and burgermeister hans waldmann sword (small beef steaks wrapped round a sword blade), the restaurant serves at least 12 varieties of sausage, including kanonenputzer (French-speaking region), vaudois (pork, bacon, white wine and spices slowly smoked), bratwurst, Hungarian and St Gallen schüblig.
Bahnhofstrasse 28a, Paradeplatz
Tel: (044) 211 2690.
Website: www.zeughauskeller.ch
Price: $
Shopping
Zurich makes shopping a pleasure - elegant boutiques, department stores and speciality shops are clustered in the Old Town, interspersed with cafés and bars for those necessary breaks. Most shops are open Monday-Friday 0900-1830 and Saturday 0800-1600. Many, except for the large stores, close for lunch. Late shopping on Thursday is until 2100. By law, shops cannot stay open longer than 2000 on weekdays and 1700 on Saturday. VAT is charged at a rate of 7.6% and can be reclaimed for single items purchased for SFr400 or more.
The most fashionable shopping street is Bahnhofstrasse (website: www.bahnhofstrasse-zuerich.ch), which stretches from the Hauptbahnhof past Paradeplatz to the lake. High-quality Swiss goods and international labels can be found here. There are more boutiques tucked away to the east; the main streets (Rennweg and Limmatquai) are a good starting point. More alternative (and cheaper) shops are on Langstrasse, to the west of the Hauptbahnhof.
On Saturdays from May to October, Bürkliplatz fills with stalls during the weekly flea market. Interesting antiques and hand-made artefacts are sold at Rosenhof (tel: (052) 685 3010; website: www.rosenhof.ch) in the Old Town, Thursdays and Saturdays from March to December.
Uniquely Swiss gifts are fine chocolates, Swiss Army knives, watches, embroidery, linen and handmade clocks. Schweizer Heimatwerk, Bahnhofstrasse 2 (website: www.heimatwerk.ch), has a good selection of traditional and modern Swiss design especially wooden folk toys, while Confiserie Sprüngli, Bahnhofstrasse 21 (website: www.spruengli.ch), is renowned for its chocolates. It is also Zurich's oldest pastry shop and the first to permit women to drink coffee in public. The shop also serves dozens of salty hors d'oeurves and over 50 chocolates. Their ‘Luxemburgerli' biscuit is patented and only sold here. It is possible to visit the Lindt & Sprügli (website: www.lindt.com) factory, situated south of Zurich at Seestrasse 204, Kilchberg. The S-Bahn 1 or 8 from the Haufbahnhof and bus 165 from Bürkliplatz go to the factory. The tour includes a museum, a film about chocolate making and a generous gift of chocolates.
Built on the remains of an old armoury (zeughaus), originally constructed in 1487, the Zeughauskeller restaurant opened in 1927, when a new owner converted the building into the city's top restaurant and beer hall. Large stone pillars hold up the ornamental wooden-beamed ceiling, on which weapons from the Middle Ages to the present day are displayed. The decor is traditional, with large portraits of noblemen from the time of the medieval mercenaries and well-separated large tables that are shared, often leading to new friendships as discussions become all-inclusive. Besides classic dishes like Zurich-style kalbsgeschnetzeltes (sliced veal and mushrooms in a white wine sauce) and burgermeister hans waldmann sword (small beef steaks wrapped round a sword blade), the restaurant serves at least 12 varieties of sausage, including kanonenputzer (French-speaking region), vaudois (pork, bacon, white wine and spices slowly smoked), bratwurst, Hungarian and St Gallen schüblig.
Bahnhofstrasse 28a, Paradeplatz
Tel: (044) 211 2690.
Website: www.zeughauskeller.ch
Price: $
Shopping
Zurich makes shopping a pleasure - elegant boutiques, department stores and speciality shops are clustered in the Old Town, interspersed with cafés and bars for those necessary breaks. Most shops are open Monday-Friday 0900-1830 and Saturday 0800-1600. Many, except for the large stores, close for lunch. Late shopping on Thursday is until 2100. By law, shops cannot stay open longer than 2000 on weekdays and 1700 on Saturday. VAT is charged at a rate of 7.6% and can be reclaimed for single items purchased for SFr400 or more.
The most fashionable shopping street is Bahnhofstrasse (website: www.bahnhofstrasse-zuerich.ch), which stretches from the Hauptbahnhof past Paradeplatz to the lake. High-quality Swiss goods and international labels can be found here. There are more boutiques tucked away to the east; the main streets (Rennweg and Limmatquai) are a good starting point. More alternative (and cheaper) shops are on Langstrasse, to the west of the Hauptbahnhof.
On Saturdays from May to October, Bürkliplatz fills with stalls during the weekly flea market. Interesting antiques and hand-made artefacts are sold at Rosenhof (tel: (052) 685 3010; website: www.rosenhof.ch) in the Old Town, Thursdays and Saturdays from March to December.
Uniquely Swiss gifts are fine chocolates, Swiss Army knives, watches, embroidery, linen and handmade clocks. Schweizer Heimatwerk, Bahnhofstrasse 2 (website: www.heimatwerk.ch), has a good selection of traditional and modern Swiss design especially wooden folk toys, while Confiserie Sprüngli, Bahnhofstrasse 21 (website: www.spruengli.ch), is renowned for its chocolates. It is also Zurich's oldest pastry shop and the first to permit women to drink coffee in public. The shop also serves dozens of salty hors d'oeurves and over 50 chocolates. Their ‘Luxemburgerli' biscuit is patented and only sold here. It is possible to visit the Lindt & Sprügli (website: www.lindt.com) factory, situated south of Zurich at Seestrasse 204, Kilchberg. The S-Bahn 1 or 8 from the Haufbahnhof and bus 165 from Bürkliplatz go to the factory. The tour includes a museum, a film about chocolate making and a generous gift of chocolates.
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