Darjeeling the Dame

Places to Stay

Windamere Hotel

The grand dame of Darjeeling started out as a Boarding house for English Bachelors. Just before the WW II , it was turned into a hotel with large rooms, deep fireplaces and baize billiard tables. Today it has been re-invented as a Heritage Hotel, pricey and exclusive. Perched on the Observatory Hill, it offers spectacular views; watch the winding roads of Darjeeling, or glimpse the Kanchenjunga from your bathtub. You can also treat yourself to an impressive afternoon tea accompanied by a string quartet or pianist.

TEL (0354) 225 4041-2

The Planter’s Club

Authentic right down to the creaking floorboards, the Club offers you a charming glimpse into tea garden luxury. The cannon on the front porch looks out to the Mall, while stuffed antler heads stare down at visitors from wooden plaques. The club takes in guests from all over the country as temporary members, so do not miss out.

Tel : (0354) 225 4341

The Glenburn Tea Estate

The path to this tea estate might challenge a mountain goat, but no one’s complaining here. Glenburn is one of the few tea gardens in Darjeeling to take in guests. The rooms are named and themed to match- the Rose has sheets and pillowcases embroidered with roses and have splendid mountain views and cane furniture. Traipse through the garden, go fishing or boating in the river, and take along a picnic basket. Don’t forget to try the brownies for a treat.

www.glenburnteaestate.cm

Must Eats

Glenarys

The master baker’s place is where everyone heads for tea or coffee and pastries all day. Extremely popular and always crowded. The restaurant upstairs is famed for its Tandoori fare, while the basement holds jam sessions.

Tel (0354) 225 4315

Kunga

It may have a simple décor, but you will find the best Tibetan Food in town at Kunga. Its delicious momos and gyathuk, thentuk and bhagtuk soups are legendary. Around breakfast drop in for some yummy muesli and fruit yoghurt.

Tel (0354) 225 3971

Keventer’s

Treat yourself to a breakfast of bacon and sausages, accompanied by lemon tea, on the rooftop at Keventer’s. If you are lucky, the Kanchenjunga might reveal herself under a veil of clouds. The deli below stocks local cheeses and pork.

Tel (0354) 225 4026/6542

Chattisgarh Secrets

Chattisgarh Undiscovered

Places to Stay

Chitrakote Falls Campsite, Bastar

Perched above the Falls, 40 Kms from Jagdalpur are luxury tents and log huts with spectacular views of the torrential waters. Run by the State Tourism Board, each tent is spacious enough for a double bedroom, with an attached bathroom and a verandah where you will be close enough to listen to hear the waterfall roaring and hissing as it plunges down.

Chattisgarh Tourism Board, Paryatan Bhavan, Raipur. Tel (0771) 506 6415

Palace Kawardha, Kawardha

Set against the scenic paddy fields and the Maikal foothills, and surrounded by beautiful lawns, the Italian Marble and stone palace boasts of grand staircases, large high ceiling room and sweeping verandahs. The royal family still lives on the top floor, you can stay in one of the six ornately decorated rooms. Enjoy a drink in the bar or relax in the Durbar Hall.

www.palacekawardha.com

Place to Eat

Makri Dhaba, Kawardha

On your way from Kawardha to Chitrakote Falls near Jagdalpur, the paranthas and omlettes will see you a long way through the jungle. Try the kheer as well. Not too many other options along the way.

Sahu Jalebi Bhandar, Raipur

Setup about 30 years ago to cater to hungry commuters using the old Raipur Bus Stand, this place has become a landmark in town. Although the bus stand has shifted since, people still flock here for an early morning hearty breakfast- a mix of poha(rice flakes soaked in water and then dried) spiced with fired onions, sev(deep fried and spiced gram flour) and coriander leaves, finished with hot jalebis, (swirls of syrup doused concotions fried in sinful quantities of ghee).

Must Shop

Tussar Silk

One the most amazing sights that you will come across in the depths of the forests are long cocoons hung from the tree branches to dry. Ensconced in them are the tussar silk caterpillars which are fed on saja and arjuna trees and then taken to Kosa Silk Farm in Jagdlapur, where the silken cocoon threads are spun into gorgeous and famous Bastar Kosa Sarees.

Must visit the Silk Farm in Jagdalpur and Chuhuri Village on the Korba- Ambikapur Highway. Raigarh 134 Kms from Bilaspur is famous for its Tussar Sarees.

Wrought Iron

Stark, black and ingeniously crafted into unlikely shapes, the world famous wrought irom artifacts of Bastar possess a strange,primitive beauty that you will never see elsewhere. Wether it’s a figurine of a hunter in frozen motion or something as mundane as a garden chair, you will want to take home these creations.

Buy from the Saathi Centre in Kumharpura near Kodagaon, 50 Kms north of Jagdalpur or Naryanpur, 80 Kms from Kumharpura.

Bell Metal

Arrestingly fashioned inot elephants,horses,deer, masks and human figures by the hot wax casting technique known as Dhokra, the bell metal artifacts of Bastar are recognized the world over. With their elongated forms, they are reminiscent of Indus Valley Civilization Artefacts.

Buy from the Saathi Centre in Kumharpura near Kodagaon, 50 Kms north of Jagdalpur or Naryanpur, 80 Kms from Kumharpura.

Terracota Animals and Figurines

Clay from the Indravati River is gathered by the potters to create beautiful horses, tortoises, elephants, bells, decorative pots and urns, ashtrays and penholders.

Watch the potters at work in Shilpagram, a tiny village on the Raipur- Jagdalpur Highway

Assam Secrets

Assam in a Nutshell

Places to Stay

Wild Grass Resort and Tented Camp, Kaziranga

Located outside the National Park,large private rooms look out over the garden on the wild and thick bamboo groves. Enjoy traditional cuisine on the Verandah. Visits into the Park,Nature Treks and Jeep Safaris arranged into the Park.

Bochagaon, Kaziranga. Tel (03776) 262 085, (0361) 254 6827

GL Resort,Kaziranga

Try one of the 18 Luxury Resorts if you are looking for Luxury in the Wild. Mud Huts and Karbi Style Cottages. They have started a new safari route that begins from Ghorakate and winds its way through the less explored areas of the park.

NH 37, Phulagari. Tel (03672) 299 486.

Satras, Majuli

For a slightly out of the way experience head to Majuli, the largest river island in the world. Satras are the Monasteries which Majuli is famous for. These are Vaishnav Monasteries which are treasure houses of art and culture. A Peaceful and rejuvenating stay at one of the monasteries is an experience to be remembered. The Shawls and Blankets of Majuli are colorful and even make great wall hangings.

12 Kms from Jorhat.

Wild Mahaseer, Balipura

A British Assam Heritage Property that is over 100 years old and has spacious bungalows surrounded by tropical forests and tea gardens. Spread over 22 acres, the resort has a lot of character. Make a trip into the Nameri National Park nearby, a great place for fishing enthusiasts who try and catch the rare Golden Mahaseer .

20 Min from Tezpur.

mahaseer@nivalink.com

Thengal Mansion

Set in the village of Jalukonibari, this 72 year old mansion which once belonged to a tea planter has been converted into a Welcomheritage Hotel. It still retains all the accouterments of the colonial way of life; the white porch has beautiful columns, the verandahs are colonnaded , there’s Louis XV furniture in the drawing room .

Village Jalukonibari, 15kms from Jorhat

Tel (03672) 335 919, 304 267

Eats and Treats in Assam

Bilahi Tenga

No foodie ever leaves without his fill of bilahi tenga, a traditional dish made of fried fish and loads of tomatoes. The fish is cut into small pieces and marinated in salt and turmeric; it is then deep fried before being cooked with fenugreek seeds, green chilies and tomatoes. The flavorful tenga goes well with rice.

Sanjeev Kapoor’s Yellow Chilli at the Hub in Guwahati

Rice Payesh

Where else would you get kheer made of oranges? Each orange segment is peeled, deseeded and allowed to soak in sugar; while milk is simmered for hours in a thick bottomed pan till it reduces to half. Once the consistency is reached, the milk is allowed to cool and oranges added. It is served chilled and its velvety texture with its tang of oranges is divine.

Bamboo Shoot Fry

Assam being the land of so many different species of bamboo, is it any surprise that bamboo is a part of the cuisine ?? Bamboo Shoot Fry is a great introduction; the shoots are cut into strips and fried with fenugreek seeds,salt and chillies to make this lip smacking dish.

Also try the KHARISA ; the famous and distinctive bamboo shoot pickle you will find in every meal. The pickle is made of bamboo shoots pickled with paste of mustard sees and soaked in mustard oil.

Found in most Assamese Eateries.

Must See Places in Assam

Sibsagar

Shiavites come to Sibsagar to offer prayers at the Shivadol Temple which is the tallest Shiva Temple in the country. Best visited during the Shivratri Puja.

360 kms from Guwahati.