http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/graphics/2007/04/14/VeniceCityGuidefinal.pdf
Tuesday, June 26, 2007
Lisbon on a Budget
With its waterfront setting and tumbledown old quarters, its jolly façades covered from top to bottom in brightly coloured tiles and its quirky tram system, Portugal's capital would be worth getting to know whatever the expense. But given that it is, according to the Economist Intelligence Unit's latest cost-of-living survey, the cheapest city in Western Europe (out of 27 surveyed), there is little excuse not to go. Here's how you might spend a typical day.
Kick off by splashing out £8 on a 24-hour Lisboa Card. This gives unlimited access to the city's metro, buses, trams and funiculars, and also covers free entrance to more than two dozen museums. The perfect introduction to Lisbon's hills and those tumbledown districts is provided by wood-panelled tram number 28, which rattles along a six-mile-long roller-coaster route across the city.
Next, hop on another tram - this one will be a slick new version - to the suburb of Belem. By all means admire the exuberant monuments to Portugal's golden age of discovery, but your prime focus should be the local speciality, custard tarts. The Antiga Confeitaria de Belem serves Lisbon's best, for the princely sum of 50p each.
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Back in the centre, a lunch of bacalhau (dried salted cod) and arroz doce (rice pudding) at a simple restaurant should come to under £8. Afterwards, cough up £2.15 for an intense dose of culture. The compact Gulbenkian Museum contains one man's personal collection from the world's great art treasures. It's a refreshing antidote to the vast national galleries of other European capitals.
When it comes to shopping, Lisbon has one foot in the 19th century, the other in the 21st. Old-fashioned stores in Baixa, the city centre, stock everything from dried salt cod to canaries, while in the Chiado and Bairro Alto districts you'll find funky clothes boutiques. Also look out for exquisite modern and antique tiles: Solar, at Rua Dom Pedro V 68, has thousands dating from the 1500s to the Art Deco period. Another essential purchase should be a bottle of port. In nearby Rua de Sao Pedro de Alcantara 45, the Solar do Vinho do Porto has dozens of ports to taste by the glass (from about 70p) to help you decide which brand to buy.
In recent years, Lisbon has become trendy. But prices in even the most fashionable restaurants are way below those in other European capitals. A dinner of creative French and Portuguese dishes at the Alcantara Cafe should set you back little more than £20 (excluding drinks). Finish off the evening at Lux, the grooviest of the many waterfront nightclubs (entrance is free, though drinks are pricey). A taxi back to your hotel, wherever in the city, is unlikely to cost more than about £4.
One of the joys of Lisbon is how easy it is to escape the city. A short train ride will take you to the gently faded resorts of Estoril and Cascais, and up into the hills to Sintra and its fairytale palaces that were once summer retreats for Portuguese royalty.
Getting there: £119 return with British Airways from Heathrow
Double room in respectable budget hotel: £30 high season
Double room in five-star hotel: from £100 high season
Meal at top restaurant: £25 per person, including wine
Good budget meal: £6 per person
Bottle of decent wine: £2
Taxi journey: £3.50 for a five-minute ride
Concert ticket: £12
Paris for First Timers
Paris is divided by the Seine, with the northern section called the Right Bank and the smaller south known as the Left Bank - although today the latter tends to refer largely to the Latin Quarter and St-Germain.
There are four main and easily walkable areas for the first-timer to explore: Concorde - extending from the Louvre to the Arc de Triomphe; Marais to the east; Montmartre to the north; and the Latin Quarter and St-Germain.
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The only principal sights outside these areas are the Musée d'Orsay, on the central south bank, and the Eiffel Tower to the west on the south bank.
Eiffel Tower Built as a temporary structure for the 1889 Exposition Universelle, the Tour Eiffel survived to become the quintessential symbol of Paris. Best views are from the second level. Admission (by lift): €10.20 to the top, €7 for second level or €3.70 to the first. Climbing the stairs to the second level costs €3.30. Open until midnight from mid-June to August, until 11pm from September to mid-June; top level until 10.30pm.
Arc de Triomphe Begun by Napoleon in 1806 but not finished until 1836, the arch stands at the head of the Champs-Elysées. Climb the 280 steps to the top and you'll be rewarded with a superb view. Admission: €7. Open April-September until 11pm, October-March until 10.30pm.
The Louvre Even if you don't have the time to explore the interior, the buildings themselves are stunning - a former royal palace set at the head of the Tuileries gardens. Best time to go is late in the day, when the crowds have thinned. Admission: €7.50, which falls to €5 after 3pm and on Sunday. Under-18s free. Closed Tues; open until 9.45pm Mon and Wed, until 6pm Thurs-Sun (www.louvre.fr ).
Jardin des Tuileries A perfect example of a formal French garden, the Tuileries extend half-a-mile from the place de la Concorde to the Louvre. In among the trees, cafés beckon, promising shady respite from sightseeing.
Nôtre Dame Begun in 1160 and completed around 1345, this cathedral is one of the greatest gothic buildings in the world. Free guided tours in French at noon (Sat 2pm), and in English at noon on Wednesdays. Entrance is free, but a worthwhile tour of the towers costs €6, free for under-18s. Organ recitals (Sun 4pm) are an added bonus.
Sacré Coeur Dubbed by Zola "the basilica of the ridiculous", this church was built, controversially, as atonement for "crimes" of the Paris Communards in 1871. Perhaps its most impressive feature is the sweeping view of the city from its dome (€5).
Musée d'Orsay On the Left Bank facing the Tuileries, the Musée d'Orsay dazzles with its stunning who's who of Impressionism, with work by Monet, Manet, Renoir, Van Gogh, Cézanne, Degas and Gauguin among others. Closed Mon; adults €8.50, or €6.50 after 4.15pm. Under-18s free (www.musee-orsay.fr ).
Père-Lachaise Cemetery The shady avenues here provide one of the most fascinating and atmospheric walks in Paris. Among residents are Bizet, Balzac, Molière, Abélard and Héloïse, Chopin, Rossini, Jim Morrison, Sarah Bernhardt, Edith Piaf, Proust and Oscar Wilde, lying under a huge sculpture by Epstein. Get a €2 map from the newsagent or florist near the main entrance. Entrance free (www.pere-lachaise.com ).
Panthéon Inspired by the Pantheon in Rome, this was originally commissioned by Louis XV as a church to honour the city's patron saint, Geneviève, but converted during the Revolution into a secular temple honouring France's greatest sons and, so far, one daughter. Admission: €7 (www.paris-tourism.com/places/pantheon ).
The Seine Walk by it, cruise on it or just sit and watch it go by. The city's famed bateaux-mouches offer the most popular cruises; hour-long trips start at the Embarcadère du Pont de l'Alma on the Right Bank, departing every half-hour in the summer, 10am-10.30pm. Night cruises are particularly spectacular. €7 adults, €4 under-12s and over-60s; for the dinner cruises, €90-€125 for four courses including wines and service; jacket and tie required. Contact Bateaux-Mouches (00 331 42 25 96 10, www.bateaux-mouches.fr ) or Bateaux Parisiens (00 331 44 11 33 55 www.bateaux-parisiens.-com).
Boulevard St-Michel The Left Bank can be a bit of a tourist scrum, but no first visit to the city would be complete without a stroll down the "boule Mich" and a wander through the Latin Quarter. Well worth a visit are the medieval church of St Séverin, the Musée National du Moyen-Age, the Panthéon (see above) and the Jardin du Luxembourg. As you stroll south and east, the student atmosphere falls away as you enter into ultra-chic St-Germain, once home to impoverished writers but now rivalling the avenue Montaigne for designer boutiques.
The Moulin Rouge (00 331 53 09 82 82, www.moulinrouge.fr ) is the home of the cancan and a kitsch classic. It has regained much of its popularity following its adoption by Hollywood, so you'll have to book well ahead. Dinner and show, €135-€165; show only, €95 (9pm) or €85 (11pm). Similar venues include the Lido (00 331 40 76 56 10, www.lido.fr) and the Crazy Horse (000 331 47 23 32 32, www.lecrazy horseparis.com).
For bars and clubs, start in the Marais. Among many others, try Le B4 Café, rue Sainte-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie; Les Etages, rue Vielle-du-Temple; Étienne Marcel, rue Étienne Marcel: and Andy Wahloo, rue des Gravilliers. Then work your way over to the clubs of the République /Bastille - La Scène, rue des Taillandiers; La Gibus, rue du Faubourg-du-Temple; Nouveau Casino, rue Oberkampf; and La Fabrique, rue Faubourg-St-Antoine.
Don't miss the deparment stores. Still one of the best preserved jewels of the belle époque, La Samaritaine on rue de la Monnaie underwent a facelift last year, and one section has now been let out to the smart high-street shops. Don't miss the elaborate turquoise-and-gold wrought ironwork and mosaics around the glass roof; visit the top-floor café for a coffee and the view. On rue de Sèvres, Le Bon Marché is the oldest and probably still the most elegant of he city's big stores, and has also recently undergone extensive renovation. Men should head for the designer boutiques of the Balthazar section, while for women there are seven luxury boutiques ranging from Dior to Chanel on the ground floor. The superb Grande Epicerie food hall is in an adjacent building. Printemps, on boulevard Haussmann, has six floors of fabulous fashion for both men and women, including the largest beauty department in the world. Head for the terrace restaurant on the ninth floor, if only for the superb art nouveau cupola.
The Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen on avenue Porte de Clignancourt is probably the largest flea market in the world, with 10 miles of walkways. There are too many visitors here for there to be very many bargains, but it is still a fascinating hour or two's browse (Sat-Mon).
Established in 1882, La Tour d'Argent on quai de la Tournelle (00 331 43 54 23 31, www.tourdargent.com ) is probably Paris's most famous restaurant, and with good reason - not least because of its duck dishes and a magnificent view over the Seine. Dinner costs from €125 to €200, but lunch is more reasonable at €70.
Café de la Paix on blvd des Capucines (00 331 40 07 32 32) was the main restaurant of the Hotel de La Paix (now Le Grand), built by Napoleon III opposite the Opéra and designed by the very same Garnier; its stunning ceiling of bon vivant cupids has been declared an historical monument. "Discovery Menu" €37.
Le Pré Verre on rue Thenard (00 331 43 54 59 47) is one of the latest bistro hits of the Latin Quarter. The blackboard menu changes daily, but watch out for the ravioli stuffed with snails and roast suckling pig. Menu €24.
Ma Bourgogne, set in the arcades of the place des Vosges (00 331 42 78 44 64), is as good for people-watching as for its cuisine. Menu €32 (no credit cards).
Melboure Coffee Favourites
Breadwell
For comfort in the shape of pies and great soups, along with the coffee to die for.
135 Flinders Lane.
Federal Coffee Place
Built like the spacious coffee palaces of the 1880's.
GPO Shop, 23 G, Melbourne 2300
Journal
This warmly lit space will remind you of a reading room, with its bookshelves and communal tables.
Shop 1, Level 1, 253 Flinders Lane
Pellegrini's Espresso Bar
Hearty authentic Italian Food and fabulous coffee.
66, Bourke Street
For comfort in the shape of pies and great soups, along with the coffee to die for.
135 Flinders Lane.
Federal Coffee Place
Built like the spacious coffee palaces of the 1880's.
GPO Shop, 23 G, Melbourne 2300
Journal
This warmly lit space will remind you of a reading room, with its bookshelves and communal tables.
Shop 1, Level 1, 253 Flinders Lane
Pellegrini's Espresso Bar
Hearty authentic Italian Food and fabulous coffee.
66, Bourke Street
French Gourmet Trail
Champagne
150 Kms east of Paris lies Champagne, a name associated with exceptional wine.... Enjoy visits to Vineyards and Cellars in both the Capitals of Champagne- Epernay in the North and Troyes in the South, which feel like an expedition into mediveal times. Make a pit stop at Hautvilliers village, where Dom Perignon is said to have invented the spirited sparkle in the 17th Century. Local cuisines along the path are largely based on Champagne and rose.....
Burgundy
Known for its high quality wine, especially from Dijon and Beaune, and a stunning landscape that covers the hills, stone mountains, fertile plains and the river. Vines were introduced here by the Romans and the process later developed for large scale production by Cistercian Monks. An Influential Wine Making region today, produces some of the world's most famous bottled bliss. Savouries include Snails in a Parsley Butter Sauce, Beef Bourguignon and an endless variety of cheese.
Bordeaux
This region's signature specialities include oysters and eels which may be washed down with the most expensive wines of the region. Bordeaux produces a wide range of dry and medium dry wines other than the Bordeaux Superior.
Languedoc
Been producing wines for more than 2000 years now, a process initially started by the Greeks and then the Romans. Languedoc turns out high quality wines out of varieties such as Syrah, Merlot, Sauvingnon and Vigonier.
150 Kms east of Paris lies Champagne, a name associated with exceptional wine.... Enjoy visits to Vineyards and Cellars in both the Capitals of Champagne- Epernay in the North and Troyes in the South, which feel like an expedition into mediveal times. Make a pit stop at Hautvilliers village, where Dom Perignon is said to have invented the spirited sparkle in the 17th Century. Local cuisines along the path are largely based on Champagne and rose.....
Burgundy
Known for its high quality wine, especially from Dijon and Beaune, and a stunning landscape that covers the hills, stone mountains, fertile plains and the river. Vines were introduced here by the Romans and the process later developed for large scale production by Cistercian Monks. An Influential Wine Making region today, produces some of the world's most famous bottled bliss. Savouries include Snails in a Parsley Butter Sauce, Beef Bourguignon and an endless variety of cheese.
Bordeaux
This region's signature specialities include oysters and eels which may be washed down with the most expensive wines of the region. Bordeaux produces a wide range of dry and medium dry wines other than the Bordeaux Superior.
Languedoc
Been producing wines for more than 2000 years now, a process initially started by the Greeks and then the Romans. Languedoc turns out high quality wines out of varieties such as Syrah, Merlot, Sauvingnon and Vigonier.
Useful Travel Sites
www.turnhere.com
A Youtube on Travel.... It has video content for a sneak preview of holiday destinations, resorts, hotels before you go....
www.travelzoo.com
Experts review each offer to find the best travel deals and confirm their true value.... they also provide tips on where to find the best deals.....
www.travelphrase.com
Great site to learn basic, important travel phrases in Spanish, French, German and Italian covering most aspects of travel.....
www.travelsmith.com
Check their Travel Corner to help make travel as hassle-free as possible.....
www.hotelcompany.com
Find family hotels, chain hotels , airport hotels, highway hotels, luxury hotels to low- budget ones in all big cities of the world....
A Youtube on Travel.... It has video content for a sneak preview of holiday destinations, resorts, hotels before you go....
www.travelzoo.com
Experts review each offer to find the best travel deals and confirm their true value.... they also provide tips on where to find the best deals.....
www.travelphrase.com
Great site to learn basic, important travel phrases in Spanish, French, German and Italian covering most aspects of travel.....
www.travelsmith.com
Check their Travel Corner to help make travel as hassle-free as possible.....
www.hotelcompany.com
Find family hotels, chain hotels , airport hotels, highway hotels, luxury hotels to low- budget ones in all big cities of the world....
Thursday, June 7, 2007
Edinburgh
Why go?
Do you need a reason? It is a glorious city that looks, feels and tastes good. From the castle poised over the Old Town, through the sweep of the Royal Mile, to the elegance of the Georgian New Town and the contemporary tang of Leith, it tantalises the eyes and calms the spirit. Take your pleasure - art galleries, swanky shopping, quirky museums, grand history - then indulge. There are three Michelin-starred restaurants and drinking venues range from whisky-fuddled pubs to designer bars. From June 7 to June 10, the "Taste of Edinburgh" food festival showcases the best.
Getting there
The train wins, hands down. From London, GNER (08457 225225, www.gner.co.uk ) runs more than 20 trains a day, taking, on average, four and a half hours and gliding through York, Durham and Newcastle and across Robert Stephenson's magnificent viaduct at Berwick-upon-Tweed. The finest coastal views are north of Newcastle; book a right-hand seat. Step out into the heart of Edinburgh: Castle to the left, Princes Street to the right. Perfect. From £25 return booked in advance. Standard return, £98.20.
Staying there
The three Georgian townhouses of The Howard (0131 557 3500, www.thehoward.com ) offer old-fashioned luxury. Soft carpets, plump sofas, thick curtains wrap you in country-house comfort with a butler to sort every whim. Doubles from £160, room only.
2 Cambridge Street (0131 478 0005, www.wwwonderful.net ), in the shadow of the Castle, has deluxe hotel quality but b & b warmth. The two rooms are cocoon-like, with purple walls and brass bedsteads. No televisions but gourmet breakfasts. Doubles from £95.
Ten minutes from Princes Street, Ten Hill Place Hotel (0131 662 2080, www.tenhillplace.com ) offers a clean, contemporary style. Doubles from £122 including full Scottish breakfast.
Getting around Edinburgh is biggish and hilly but, if you have time, a delight to walk around. Otherwise, buses are frequent; single journey £1, day ticket £2.50. Biketrax (0131 228 6633, www.biketrax.co.uk ) offers half-day bike hire for £12, full day £16. Taxis stop on request.
What to see and do
First-time visitors should start at the Castle (0131 225 9846, 9.30am-6pm daily, adult £11, child £5.50), but if history isn't your thing, head to Nelson's Monument (0131 556 2716) on Calton Hill, which commemorates the admiral's victory at Trafalgar. Climb its 143 steps to enjoy the city's finest view. Open Tues-Sat, 10am-6pm, Mon 1pm-6pm. £3.
If it's Saturday, wander the Farmers' Market (9am-2pm), officially the UK's best, on Castle Terrace, where you can pick up smoked salmon, organic bacon and lemon balm soap and snack on gingerbread and oysters. At the Camera Obscura (0131 226 3709), Castlehill, play Peeping Tom via a periscope that projects an image of the city's comings and goings on to a hidden white screen. Open daily 9.30am-6pm (7.30pm July/August). Adult £7.50, child £5.
From August 4 to October 7, catch Andy Warhol at the National Gallery, adding to an impressive permanent collection which includes works by Titian, Raphael, Canova and the Impressionists. At the National Portrait Gallery - another handsome collection with an excellent café - The Naked Portrait runs from June 6 to September 2. Open daily 10am-5pm, Thurs 7pm (0131 624 6200). Free admission, charge for exhibitions.
Stroll the Water of Leith Walkway to the Royal Yacht Britannia (0131 555 8866) to marvel at the Royal G-Plan furnishings, the Queen's single bed, the cramped crew's quarters and the 1950s' operating theatre. Open daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £9.50, child £5.50.
Walk
Circumnavigate the globe at the Royal Botanic Garden (0131 552 7171), from Chinese hillside to Himalayan rhododendrons, Scottish heathland to Alpine rock gardens. Open daily 10am-7pm. Garden free, glasshouses, adult £3.50, child £1.
Don't bother…
…with the tartanalia shops of the Royal Mile. For inspirational Scottish shopping try West Bow and Victoria Street (Old Town) or Stockbridge in the New Town.
Where to eat and drink
Seasonal, Scottish produce is cooked with imagination - home-cured salt-cod mousse with Highland Burgundy potatoes, saddle of rabbit stuffed with spinach, kidneys and shallots - at The Kitchin (78 Commercial Quay, Leith, 0131 555 1755 ), where Tom Kitchin is Scotland's youngest Michelin-starred chef. Main courses about £23.
At tiny Iglu (2b Jamaica Street, 0131 476 5333 ) unfussy food, cooked with a conscience might include Arbroath smokie fishcakes and wild boar saddle chops. Main courses about £16.
Urban Angel (121 Hanover Street, 0131 225 6215, www.urban-angel.co.uk ) is a relaxed, anytime eaterie with organic credentials. Lunch costs about £10.
For classic Italian food - Parma ham with chargrilled polenta, pasta with meatballs - in buzzy surroundings, try Vin Caffè (11 Multrees Walk, 0131 557 0088 ). Mains £10-£19.
Always Sunday (170 High Street, www.alwayssunday.co.uk) and Plaisir du Chocolat (251-253 Canongate, www.plaisirduchocolat.com) are great pit-stops for a pastry hit.
The Café Royal (17 West Register Street) is a classic Victorian pub, while the bars of George Street - The Dome, Le Monde, Tigerlily and Tempus - vie for designer gorgeousness.
Do you need a reason? It is a glorious city that looks, feels and tastes good. From the castle poised over the Old Town, through the sweep of the Royal Mile, to the elegance of the Georgian New Town and the contemporary tang of Leith, it tantalises the eyes and calms the spirit. Take your pleasure - art galleries, swanky shopping, quirky museums, grand history - then indulge. There are three Michelin-starred restaurants and drinking venues range from whisky-fuddled pubs to designer bars. From June 7 to June 10, the "Taste of Edinburgh" food festival showcases the best.
Getting there
The train wins, hands down. From London, GNER (08457 225225, www.gner.co.uk ) runs more than 20 trains a day, taking, on average, four and a half hours and gliding through York, Durham and Newcastle and across Robert Stephenson's magnificent viaduct at Berwick-upon-Tweed. The finest coastal views are north of Newcastle; book a right-hand seat. Step out into the heart of Edinburgh: Castle to the left, Princes Street to the right. Perfect. From £25 return booked in advance. Standard return, £98.20.
Staying there
The three Georgian townhouses of The Howard (0131 557 3500, www.thehoward.com ) offer old-fashioned luxury. Soft carpets, plump sofas, thick curtains wrap you in country-house comfort with a butler to sort every whim. Doubles from £160, room only.
2 Cambridge Street (0131 478 0005, www.wwwonderful.net ), in the shadow of the Castle, has deluxe hotel quality but b & b warmth. The two rooms are cocoon-like, with purple walls and brass bedsteads. No televisions but gourmet breakfasts. Doubles from £95.
Ten minutes from Princes Street, Ten Hill Place Hotel (0131 662 2080, www.tenhillplace.com ) offers a clean, contemporary style. Doubles from £122 including full Scottish breakfast.
Getting around Edinburgh is biggish and hilly but, if you have time, a delight to walk around. Otherwise, buses are frequent; single journey £1, day ticket £2.50. Biketrax (0131 228 6633, www.biketrax.co.uk ) offers half-day bike hire for £12, full day £16. Taxis stop on request.
What to see and do
First-time visitors should start at the Castle (0131 225 9846, 9.30am-6pm daily, adult £11, child £5.50), but if history isn't your thing, head to Nelson's Monument (0131 556 2716) on Calton Hill, which commemorates the admiral's victory at Trafalgar. Climb its 143 steps to enjoy the city's finest view. Open Tues-Sat, 10am-6pm, Mon 1pm-6pm. £3.
If it's Saturday, wander the Farmers' Market (9am-2pm), officially the UK's best, on Castle Terrace, where you can pick up smoked salmon, organic bacon and lemon balm soap and snack on gingerbread and oysters. At the Camera Obscura (0131 226 3709), Castlehill, play Peeping Tom via a periscope that projects an image of the city's comings and goings on to a hidden white screen. Open daily 9.30am-6pm (7.30pm July/August). Adult £7.50, child £5.
From August 4 to October 7, catch Andy Warhol at the National Gallery, adding to an impressive permanent collection which includes works by Titian, Raphael, Canova and the Impressionists. At the National Portrait Gallery - another handsome collection with an excellent café - The Naked Portrait runs from June 6 to September 2. Open daily 10am-5pm, Thurs 7pm (0131 624 6200). Free admission, charge for exhibitions.
Stroll the Water of Leith Walkway to the Royal Yacht Britannia (0131 555 8866) to marvel at the Royal G-Plan furnishings, the Queen's single bed, the cramped crew's quarters and the 1950s' operating theatre. Open daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £9.50, child £5.50.
Walk
Circumnavigate the globe at the Royal Botanic Garden (0131 552 7171), from Chinese hillside to Himalayan rhododendrons, Scottish heathland to Alpine rock gardens. Open daily 10am-7pm. Garden free, glasshouses, adult £3.50, child £1.
Don't bother…
…with the tartanalia shops of the Royal Mile. For inspirational Scottish shopping try West Bow and Victoria Street (Old Town) or Stockbridge in the New Town.
Where to eat and drink
Seasonal, Scottish produce is cooked with imagination - home-cured salt-cod mousse with Highland Burgundy potatoes, saddle of rabbit stuffed with spinach, kidneys and shallots - at The Kitchin (78 Commercial Quay, Leith, 0131 555 1755 ), where Tom Kitchin is Scotland's youngest Michelin-starred chef. Main courses about £23.
At tiny Iglu (2b Jamaica Street, 0131 476 5333 ) unfussy food, cooked with a conscience might include Arbroath smokie fishcakes and wild boar saddle chops. Main courses about £16.
Urban Angel (121 Hanover Street, 0131 225 6215, www.urban-angel.co.uk ) is a relaxed, anytime eaterie with organic credentials. Lunch costs about £10.
For classic Italian food - Parma ham with chargrilled polenta, pasta with meatballs - in buzzy surroundings, try Vin Caffè (11 Multrees Walk, 0131 557 0088 ). Mains £10-£19.
Always Sunday (170 High Street, www.alwayssunday.co.uk) and Plaisir du Chocolat (251-253 Canongate, www.plaisirduchocolat.com) are great pit-stops for a pastry hit.
The Café Royal (17 West Register Street) is a classic Victorian pub, while the bars of George Street - The Dome, Le Monde, Tigerlily and Tempus - vie for designer gorgeousness.
Grasse The Perfume Capital of the World
Why go?
The recent film adaptation of Patrick Süskind's novel Perfume put Grasse back on the map as the world capital of perfumery. Where else can you walk through fields of roses and jasmine, design a signature perfume and eat at one of the Côte d'Azur's best two-star Michelin restaurants?
Bastide St Antoine Jacques Chibois - a stylish manor house
Visit its three major perfume houses (Galimard, Molinard and Fragonard), see the beautiful villa once owned by a grand perfumier, decorated with paintings by Jean-Honoré Fragonard, wander through the medieval streets of the old town, or join Grasse Tourist Office's Le Parfum weekend.
Travel by...
Plane to Nice from Stansted, Luton, Gatwick, Bristol, Liverpool and Newcastle with easyJet (0871 244 2366, www.easyjet.com) from £58 or from Heathrow and Gatwick with British Airways (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com) from £80. Hire a car from Holiday Autos (0870 400 0010, www.holidayautos.co.uk). Grasse is a 45-minute drive from Nice Airport or an hour's bus journey; Line 500 from Nice Terminal 2 to Grasse.
Sleep in...
The Bastide St Antoine Jacques Chibois (0033 493 709494, www.jacques-chibois.com), a 20-minute walk or three-minute drive into town. This is the most stylish 18th-century manor-house hotel in the region, with chic, Provençal-style bedrooms and contemporary suites, fabulous gardens, a pool and a gastronomic restaurant. Doubles from 285 euros.
The recently renovated "Chambres Romantic" at the central Hôtel Le Patti (0033 493 360100, www.hotelpatti.com) are pretty with light Provençal boutis (bedcovers), and modern wrought-iron and glass furnishings. "Chambres de Charme" are more dated, with traditional Provençal furniture. Doubles from 69 euros.
Hotel Mandarina (0033 493 361029, www.mandarinahotel.com), a former Carmelite Hospice atop a steep gradient, is a good central choice if you're fit or four-wheeled. Renovations are making this bright terracotta, two-star hotel with contemporary artworks a smart option, if you can ignore bits of scaffold and tiling on the terrace. Doubles, 75 euros.
Spend the morning in...
Galimard's Studio des Fragrances, concocting your own perfume. During a two-hour course (in English), tutored by a Galimard "Nez" (perfumier), create your perfume from more than 120 essences, while learning the difference between head, heart and base notes (the aromas that remain longest on the skin). The 39-euro fee includes tuition and 100ml of perfume (plus the cost of the bottle).
Lunch in...
Le 10 (0033 493 408145), Grasse's most fashionable local, run by a former French footballer (number 10). Try the plat du jour or a flavoursome coquelette with roasted garlic and puréed potatoes on the terrace in Place de la Foux (mains 12-15 euros).
Order the plat du jour (12 euros) - usually a bowl of fresh pasta or a grill - and a glass of rosé on the tiny, leafy terrace at the cheerfully decorated Café des Musées (1 rue Ossola).
Stroll around...
The higgledy-piggledy, cobbled streets of Grasse old town. The Musée Fragonard displays exquisite glass and silver pomades, bergamots, enamel and crystal perfume bottles from the 16th-19th centuries, and provides the best free perfume factory tour in English. Glance inside the Musée Provençal to see how 18th-century noble Grassoise families lived. Wander up to the 11th-13th-century Notre Dame du Puy, a grandiose cathedral of La Turbie stone, containing works by Rubens, Louis Brea and a stunning Jean-Honoré Fragonard painting, The Washing of the Disciples' Feet.
Buy....
Sugar-covered rose and violet petals, chocolate-coated figs and cherries, truffles, rose confit, fruit sirops and wines from local vineyards, at Vallauri (2 rue Dominique Conte), purveyor of delicious Provençal specialities. Pick up a bouti, stylish linens and multi-coloured terracotta casserole dishes at O Bastidon (17 rue Jean Ossola). Taste speciality olive oils and vinegars, decanted into beautiful stacking glass bottles at Palais des Olives (Bd du Jeu de Ballon). And, of course, perfume.
Have dinner at...
Bastide St Antoine Jacques Chibois (0033 493 709494, www.jacques-chibois.com), a two-star Michelin restaurant serving divine food in chic dining rooms and on romantic candlelit terraces. Chibois uses fresh, 70 per cent organic produce and minimal fat and sugar, to create perfectly balanced dishes such as delicate lobster and giant prawns on a cep and Champagne risotto, or "Marvellous Roast Quails" with chestnut truffle purée. Menus 59 euros (lunch), from 139 euros evenings.
Three months ago, chef Alexis Mayroux (who trained under Michel Guérard) and his wife, Sophie, opened Lou Candeloun (5 rue des Fabrieres, 0033 493 600449), the only "semi-gastronomic" restaurant in the heart of Grasse. In their simple dining room, they serve affordable gastronomic food using the freshest produce. Delight in layers of squid-ink pasta with seafood, or stuffed courgettes and heavenly desserts. Menus 15 euros (lunch), from 24 euros evenings.
Stay up late at...
The Casino - it's not Monaco, but it's the only place that stays open beyond dinner. Local youths head for Jimmy'z in Cannes; I prefer Baioli (www.lebaoli.com).
Recover by...
Smelling the roses at Domaine de Manon (0033 493 601276) in Plascassier, whose flower essences are used in Chanel, Guerlain and Hermés perfumes. Roses are gathered from May to early June (3pm tour) and jasmine throughout August to October (9am tour). Watch the pickers and learn how the flowers are propagated (6 euros).
The recent film adaptation of Patrick Süskind's novel Perfume put Grasse back on the map as the world capital of perfumery. Where else can you walk through fields of roses and jasmine, design a signature perfume and eat at one of the Côte d'Azur's best two-star Michelin restaurants?
Bastide St Antoine Jacques Chibois - a stylish manor house
Visit its three major perfume houses (Galimard, Molinard and Fragonard), see the beautiful villa once owned by a grand perfumier, decorated with paintings by Jean-Honoré Fragonard, wander through the medieval streets of the old town, or join Grasse Tourist Office's Le Parfum weekend.
Travel by...
Plane to Nice from Stansted, Luton, Gatwick, Bristol, Liverpool and Newcastle with easyJet (0871 244 2366, www.easyjet.com) from £58 or from Heathrow and Gatwick with British Airways (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com) from £80. Hire a car from Holiday Autos (0870 400 0010, www.holidayautos.co.uk). Grasse is a 45-minute drive from Nice Airport or an hour's bus journey; Line 500 from Nice Terminal 2 to Grasse.
Sleep in...
The Bastide St Antoine Jacques Chibois (0033 493 709494, www.jacques-chibois.com), a 20-minute walk or three-minute drive into town. This is the most stylish 18th-century manor-house hotel in the region, with chic, Provençal-style bedrooms and contemporary suites, fabulous gardens, a pool and a gastronomic restaurant. Doubles from 285 euros.
The recently renovated "Chambres Romantic" at the central Hôtel Le Patti (0033 493 360100, www.hotelpatti.com) are pretty with light Provençal boutis (bedcovers), and modern wrought-iron and glass furnishings. "Chambres de Charme" are more dated, with traditional Provençal furniture. Doubles from 69 euros.
Hotel Mandarina (0033 493 361029, www.mandarinahotel.com), a former Carmelite Hospice atop a steep gradient, is a good central choice if you're fit or four-wheeled. Renovations are making this bright terracotta, two-star hotel with contemporary artworks a smart option, if you can ignore bits of scaffold and tiling on the terrace. Doubles, 75 euros.
Spend the morning in...
Galimard's Studio des Fragrances, concocting your own perfume. During a two-hour course (in English), tutored by a Galimard "Nez" (perfumier), create your perfume from more than 120 essences, while learning the difference between head, heart and base notes (the aromas that remain longest on the skin). The 39-euro fee includes tuition and 100ml of perfume (plus the cost of the bottle).
Lunch in...
Le 10 (0033 493 408145), Grasse's most fashionable local, run by a former French footballer (number 10). Try the plat du jour or a flavoursome coquelette with roasted garlic and puréed potatoes on the terrace in Place de la Foux (mains 12-15 euros).
Order the plat du jour (12 euros) - usually a bowl of fresh pasta or a grill - and a glass of rosé on the tiny, leafy terrace at the cheerfully decorated Café des Musées (1 rue Ossola).
Stroll around...
The higgledy-piggledy, cobbled streets of Grasse old town. The Musée Fragonard displays exquisite glass and silver pomades, bergamots, enamel and crystal perfume bottles from the 16th-19th centuries, and provides the best free perfume factory tour in English. Glance inside the Musée Provençal to see how 18th-century noble Grassoise families lived. Wander up to the 11th-13th-century Notre Dame du Puy, a grandiose cathedral of La Turbie stone, containing works by Rubens, Louis Brea and a stunning Jean-Honoré Fragonard painting, The Washing of the Disciples' Feet.
Buy....
Sugar-covered rose and violet petals, chocolate-coated figs and cherries, truffles, rose confit, fruit sirops and wines from local vineyards, at Vallauri (2 rue Dominique Conte), purveyor of delicious Provençal specialities. Pick up a bouti, stylish linens and multi-coloured terracotta casserole dishes at O Bastidon (17 rue Jean Ossola). Taste speciality olive oils and vinegars, decanted into beautiful stacking glass bottles at Palais des Olives (Bd du Jeu de Ballon). And, of course, perfume.
Have dinner at...
Bastide St Antoine Jacques Chibois (0033 493 709494, www.jacques-chibois.com), a two-star Michelin restaurant serving divine food in chic dining rooms and on romantic candlelit terraces. Chibois uses fresh, 70 per cent organic produce and minimal fat and sugar, to create perfectly balanced dishes such as delicate lobster and giant prawns on a cep and Champagne risotto, or "Marvellous Roast Quails" with chestnut truffle purée. Menus 59 euros (lunch), from 139 euros evenings.
Three months ago, chef Alexis Mayroux (who trained under Michel Guérard) and his wife, Sophie, opened Lou Candeloun (5 rue des Fabrieres, 0033 493 600449), the only "semi-gastronomic" restaurant in the heart of Grasse. In their simple dining room, they serve affordable gastronomic food using the freshest produce. Delight in layers of squid-ink pasta with seafood, or stuffed courgettes and heavenly desserts. Menus 15 euros (lunch), from 24 euros evenings.
Stay up late at...
The Casino - it's not Monaco, but it's the only place that stays open beyond dinner. Local youths head for Jimmy'z in Cannes; I prefer Baioli (www.lebaoli.com).
Recover by...
Smelling the roses at Domaine de Manon (0033 493 601276) in Plascassier, whose flower essences are used in Chanel, Guerlain and Hermés perfumes. Roses are gathered from May to early June (3pm tour) and jasmine throughout August to October (9am tour). Watch the pickers and learn how the flowers are propagated (6 euros).
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