Over the centuries, London has developed and expanded, despite the many dangers that might have defeated a lesser place – the Great Plague, the Great Fire, the bitter English Civil War, a plot to blow up the Houses of Parliament, and the 'Blitz' during World War II.
Nowadays, the sheer scale of Greater London can be daunting at first, as it sprawls 1,500sq km (580 square miles) across a voluminous plain. However, it is a city that is surprisingly easy to get around, with the comprehensive and easily navigated London Underground or 'Tube'. The twin axis on which London rests is the Houses of Parliament to the west and the City of London to the east. The seat of government (not far from the home of the royal family) is connected to the City (the financial engine room of London and the whole of the UK) by the River Thames. In between lie most of the tourist attractions and the busiest, liveliest different entertainment areas, such as Knightsbridge and Soho. But London's vivacity and charm stretches far beyond the Circle Line – the Underground route that rings the inner city. Residential areas outside the city centre, such as leafy Richmond (southwest) or Hampstead (north), trendy Hoxton (east) or Notting Hill (west), each have their own beating heart.
And as the population of the greater London area pushes inexorably towards the 10 million mark, the city continues to grow and thrive. Home to 37 distinct immigrant groups, each consisting of more than 10,000 people, this is a city where some 300 languages are spoken. This very real multiculturalism is evident on every street (and many restaurant plates) and is a key reason why people love the city. Tourists come for London's history or London's royal pageantry but they return for all the charms of the modern London, not least the extraordinary breadth of London's cultural life, with world-class art galleries and theatres, buzzing nightlife, film, music, culinary and fashion scenes. But the city skyline is the place where the London's rapid change and optimism is most visible – the Docklands and the City (with its now famous 'Gherkin' tower) have shot up over the last few years.
After an enthusiastic campaign endorsed by a wealth of sporting celebrities and fervently supported by the majority of residents, London won the bid to host the Olympic Games in 2012, which will have a significant impact on the future of the city in terms of both tourism and investment. Celebrations were, however, dampened by the atrocities of 7 July 2005, when a series of coordinated suicide bombings struck the city's transport system during the morning rush hour, killing 56, wounding hundreds, and leaving millions in shock. London, however, has bounced back more quickly than many expected from the terrorist attacks, a testament to the resilience of its people and its enduring appeal as a tourist destination.
During summer, London's bountiful green spaces fill up with office workers and tourists enjoying the surprisingly balmy days as café tables sprout across a multitude of pavements. During winter, the grey skies and rain can be forgotten for a while in numerous cosy pubs. But spring or autumn are probably the best seasons to visit the city, when clear crisp sunny days often illuminate London and its landmarks, old and new.
Sightseeing
Before setting off sightseeing, it is wise for visitors to study a London Underground map, to get a feel for the straightforward colour-coded system. Visitors should also bear in mind, however, that many of the Underground stations are very close to each other and many central areas are easily navigable on foot.
Walking the streets of London, or strolling through its parks, one realises that, in a city hailed for its ability to embrace modernity and change, the past is, however, never far away: there are four world heritage sites in London (the Palace of Westminster, the Tower of London, Maritime Greenwhich and Kew Gardens) and some 40,000 listed buildings and structures. Three of Britain's top 10 paying attractions and six of the top 10 free ones can be found in London. The London Eye, since it made its appearance on the banks of the Thames to mark the turn of the millennium, has since become the most popular attraction for visitors to the capital.
The tourist heart of London lies mainly on the north bank of the River Thames, with the chunk of flat land between South Kensington in the west to Tower Bridge in the east stuffed full of things to do and see. Starting in the west, there are the three major South Kensington Museums – the Victoria & Albert Museum, the Natural History Museum and the Science Museum. Moving eastwards, the next key attraction is Buckingham Palace. A short walk away, through St James’s Park, is Westminster, with the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben and Westminster Abbey. From here, it is another short walk up Whitehall to Trafalgar Square, with the National Gallery and other attractions. This is where the ‘West End’ starts, heading slightly north to Leicester Square – a busy tourist-infested piazza where many Londoners would not be seen dead – connecting up with Piccadilly Circus to the west and Covent Garden to the east, with the stately old British Museum a little further away to the northeast. In the middle of the West End, Theatreland and Chinatown merge into Soho, with its nightlife and new media offices.
Along the river itself, on the north bank is the Tate Britain gallery in the west, followed by Westminster and then the Embankment. Crossing over the River Thames from the Embankment can by done on the pedestrian Hungerford Bridge. The south bank of the river now has its own throngs of tourists, at the British Airways London Eye and London Aquarium. This side of the river also dominates culturally, with the South Bank Centre and, further east, the Tate Modern and the Globe Theatre. Another pedestrian bridge, Lord Foster’s Millennium Bridge, connects the Tate Modern with St Paul’s Cathedral, back on the north bank. From St Paul’s, it is possible for one to walk through the City of London, reaching the Tower of London further east. Tower Bridge connects this ancient seat of power to City Hall, on the south bank, the new state-of-the-art home of London Mayor Ken Livingstone and the London Assembly, designed by Lord Foster (website: www.london.gov.uk).
Walking the streets of London, or strolling through its parks, one realises that, in a city hailed for its ability to embrace modernity and change, the past is, however, never far away: there are four world heritage sites in London (the Palace of Westminster, the Tower of London, Maritime Greenwhich and Kew Gardens) and some 40,000 listed buildings and structures. Three of Britain's top 10 paying attractions and six of the top 10 free ones can be found in London. The London Eye, since it made its appearance on the banks of the Thames to mark the turn of the millennium, has since become the most popular attraction for visitors to the capital.
The tourist heart of London lies mainly on the north bank of the River Thames, with the chunk of flat land between South Kensington in the west to Tower Bridge in the east stuffed full of things to do and see. Starting in the west, there are the three major South Kensington Museums – the Victoria & Albert Museum, the Natural History Museum and the Science Museum. Moving eastwards, the next key attraction is Buckingham Palace. A short walk away, through St James’s Park, is Westminster, with the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben and Westminster Abbey. From here, it is another short walk up Whitehall to Trafalgar Square, with the National Gallery and other attractions. This is where the ‘West End’ starts, heading slightly north to Leicester Square – a busy tourist-infested piazza where many Londoners would not be seen dead – connecting up with Piccadilly Circus to the west and Covent Garden to the east, with the stately old British Museum a little further away to the northeast. In the middle of the West End, Theatreland and Chinatown merge into Soho, with its nightlife and new media offices.
Along the river itself, on the north bank is the Tate Britain gallery in the west, followed by Westminster and then the Embankment. Crossing over the River Thames from the Embankment can by done on the pedestrian Hungerford Bridge. The south bank of the river now has its own throngs of tourists, at the British Airways London Eye and London Aquarium. This side of the river also dominates culturally, with the South Bank Centre and, further east, the Tate Modern and the Globe Theatre. Another pedestrian bridge, Lord Foster’s Millennium Bridge, connects the Tate Modern with St Paul’s Cathedral, back on the north bank. From St Paul’s, it is possible for one to walk through the City of London, reaching the Tower of London further east. Tower Bridge connects this ancient seat of power to City Hall, on the south bank, the new state-of-the-art home of London Mayor Ken Livingstone and the London Assembly, designed by Lord Foster (website: www.london.gov.uk).
Tourist Information
Visit London
Tel: 0906 133 7799 (24-hour general tourist information).
Website: www.visitlondon.com
London’s main tourist information centre is the Britain and London Visitor Centre (BLVC), 1 Lower Regent Street, SW1. Opening hours: 0930-1830 Mon, 0900-1830 Tue-Fri and 1000-1600 Sat-Sun (Jun-Sep, Sat-Sun 1000-1700).
There are various London Tourist Information Centres (TIC) situated throughout the city, including one at Pepys House, 2 Cutty Sark Gardens, Greenwich, SE10 (tel: 0870 608 2000) open daily 1000-1700; and one at Vinopolis, 1 Bank End, SE1 (tel: (020) 7357 9168), open Tue-Sun 1000-1800, Mon closed.
City Information Centre
St Paul’s Churchyard (opposite St Paul’s Cathedral)
Tel: (020) 7332 1456.
Website: www.cityoflondon.gov.uk
Opening hours: Easter-Sep, daily 0930-1700; Oct-Mar, Mon-Fri 0930-1700, Sat 0930-1230, Sun closed.
Tel: 0906 133 7799 (24-hour general tourist information).
Website: www.visitlondon.com
London’s main tourist information centre is the Britain and London Visitor Centre (BLVC), 1 Lower Regent Street, SW1. Opening hours: 0930-1830 Mon, 0900-1830 Tue-Fri and 1000-1600 Sat-Sun (Jun-Sep, Sat-Sun 1000-1700).
There are various London Tourist Information Centres (TIC) situated throughout the city, including one at Pepys House, 2 Cutty Sark Gardens, Greenwich, SE10 (tel: 0870 608 2000) open daily 1000-1700; and one at Vinopolis, 1 Bank End, SE1 (tel: (020) 7357 9168), open Tue-Sun 1000-1800, Mon closed.
City Information Centre
St Paul’s Churchyard (opposite St Paul’s Cathedral)
Tel: (020) 7332 1456.
Website: www.cityoflondon.gov.uk
Opening hours: Easter-Sep, daily 0930-1700; Oct-Mar, Mon-Fri 0930-1700, Sat 0930-1230, Sun closed.
Passes
The London Pass (website: www.londonpass.com) allows free access to over 50 attractions (including the London Aquarium, London Zoo, Tower of London, Hampton Court Palace and Buckingham Palace in summer). The ‘with transport’ option also includes transport on all London buses, Tubes and trains. The card is available for one, two, three or six days and can be purchased at the airport and tourist information offices around London. The card is fairly expensive though, so only worth buying if you are planning on doing a lot of sightseeing during your stay in London, or if you are pressed for time (card holder can avoid queues at many of the attractions).
British Airways London Eye and County Hall
Towering 135m (444ft) into the heavens, right in the heart of London, the BA London Eye is literally an unmissable attraction. The world's tallest observation wheel has become London's most popular attraction, which usually means a 'flight' requires booking in advance and often queuing as well. However, the experience (one revolution of the wheel, lasting approximately 30 minutes) is absolutely worth it – the unparalleled views of the city reach as far away as 40km (25 miles).
Although the London Eye is the focus of the area, sitting right next door and directly across the River Thames from the Houses of Parliament is County Hall, the former home of the Greater London Council. The enormous building is home to the London Aquarium, which features over 350 different aquatic species from around the world, and some huge water tanks, and the Dalí Universe, which contains over 500 works of art by the famous surrealist, including the painting Spellbound, which was created specially for the set of the 1945 Hitchcock thriller, and the sofa in the shape of Mae West's lips. County Hall is also home to two hotels, numerous bars and restaurants and a Namco Station, a vast entertainment centre offering video games, ten-pin bowling, bumper cars, a pool hall, as well as a licensed bar and lounge with big TV screens.
South Bank, SE1
BA London Eye
Jubilee Gardens, South Bank, SE1
Tel: 0870 500 0600 (booking line).
Website: www.ba-londoneye.com
Opening hours: Daily 0930-2000 (Oct-Apr); Mon-Thurs 0930-2000, Fri-Sun 0930-2100 (May and Sep); Mon-Thurs 0930-2100, Fri-Sun 0930-2200 (Jun); daily 0930-2200 (Jul and Aug); closed (6-26 Jan).
Admission charge.
London Aquarium
County Hall, Riverside Building, SE1
Tel: (020) 7967 8000.
Website: www.londonaquarium.co.uk
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (school holidays until 1900).
Admission charge.
Dalí Universe
County Hall, Riverside Building, SE1
Tel: 0870 744 7485.
Website: www.daliuniverse.com
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1730.
Admission charge.
Tate Modern and Bankside
Opened in 2000, the Tate Modern is a £130-million project that is regarded as a model of urban regeneration, with the disused Bankside power station transformed into an avant-garde space dedicated to 20th-century art. The permanent exhibition changes biannually so that much of the Tate Gallery's collection of modern work can be on show, displayed thematically rather than chronologically. This includes major works by Matisse, Picasso and Warhol, as well as contemporary pieces. The Turbine Hall displays changing pieces of artwork, specially commissioned to fit the enormous space. International artists who have exhibited here include Olafur Eliasson with his huge Sun installation and Anish Kapoor with Marsyas, a striking, huge sculpture in steel and dark red PVC.
The Bankside area itself is becoming one of the most exciting corners of the capital, and the £14-million Millennium Bridge is one of the newest additions here. Designed by Lord Foster, it provides a pedestrian link from the Tate Modern to St Paul's Cathedral on the north bank. Bankside's cultural regeneration is enhanced by the beautifully reconstructured Shakespeare's Globe Theatre & Exhibition, which is open all year round, although plays are only performed at the outdoor venue during the summer. Other attractions along the river, past Southwark Bridge towards London Bridge, include Vinopolis, an interactive celebration of wine, the Golden Hinde, a replica of Sir Francis Drake's flagship, and Southwark Cathedral, which is nestled under London Bridge, on the edge of the nearby Borough Market (website: www.boroughmarket.org.uk), a heaven for gourmets.
Bankside, SE1
Tate Modern
Bankside, SE1
Tel: (020) 7887 8888 or 8008 (recorded information line).
Website: www.tate.org.uk
Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1000-1800, Fri and Sat 1000-2200.
Free admission (donations welcome); charge for some of the temporary exhibitions.
Shakespeare's Globe Theatre & Exhibition
21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1
Tel: (020) 7902 1400 or 7401 9919 for tickets.
Website: www.shakespeares-globe.org
Opening hours: Oct-30 Apr daily 1000-1700 (exhibition and theatre tour). May-Oct daily 0900-1200 (exhibition and theatre tour) and 1230-1700 (exhibition only).
Admission charge.
Vinopolis
1 Bank End, Bankside, SE1
Tel: 0870 241 4040.
Website: www.vinopolis.co.uk
Opening hours: Tues-Thurs and Sun 1200-1800; Mon, Fri and Sat 1200-2100.
Admission charge.
Palace of Westminster and Westminster Abbey
The Palace of Westminster contains the Houses of Parliament, part of which is one of the city's most famous landmarks - Big Ben. Big Ben is actually the name of the huge bell, whose tolling tune is instantly recognisable, while the clock tower itself, which rises above the seat of British government, is called St Stephen's. The most ancient part of the whole Palace, Westminster Hall, is 900 years old. After almost total destruction by fire, the rest of the palace was rebuilt in neo-Gothic style during the 19th century, to designs by Charles Barry.
During late July/August and mid September/early October, Parliament is in recess and the Summer Opening of the Palace of Westminster takes place. Extensive guided tours are offered for visitors; these last about 75 minutes and include the Royal Robing Rooms, the House of Lords and the House of Commons and Westminster Hall. These are not free and they must be booked in advance (in person or from Firstcall, see below). Visitors who want to watch Parliament at work, rather than tour the Palace, can watch from the Strangers' Gallery. When Parliament is in session, there are two long queues (one for the Lords and one for the Commons) outside the Palace.
Across Parliament Square is Westminster Abbey – a magnificent Gothic structure where innumerable members of the British royal family have been christened, married, crowned and interred. Consecrated under Edward the Confessor, in the 11th century, it was rebuilt over the next four centuries in Gothic style. Highlights include Henry VII's Chapel, Poet's Corner and the Coronation Chair.
Parliament Square, SW1
Summer Opening of the Palace of Westminster
Tel: 0870 906 3773 (Firstcall).
Website: www.parliament.uk or www.firstcalltickets.com
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0915-1630 or 1315-1630 (depending on schedules).
Admission charge.
Westminster Abbey
Tel: (020) 7654 4900.
Website: www.westminster-abbey.org
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1545 (Wed 1800) and Sat 0930-1345 (sightseeing; last admission one hour before closing); all day Sun (religious services only).
Admission charge, service free.
Trafalgar Square
London Mayor Ken Livingstone has made the once-congested and pigeon-infested Trafalgar Square a 'World Square', pedestrianising more of this famous space and banning seed-sellers, in an attempt to stop what he considers a nuisance. The pedestrianisation links Nelson's Column in the centre with the north side of the square, where one of the world's greatest galleries, the National Gallery, is to be found. It houses an incredible collection of Western paintings from the 13th to the early 20th century, as well as frequent special exhibitions. Round the corner, the National Portrait Gallery displays the country's famous, infamous and forgotten in the media of oil, watercolour, marble and photography. The new Ondaatje Wing includes a lecture theatre and restaurant. Opposite the gallery is the beautiful 18th-century neo-classical church, St Martin-in-the-Fields, which hosts regular concerts and has a café in the crypt.
Trafalgar Square, WC2
National Gallery
Trafalgar Square, WC2
Tel: (020) 7747 2885.
Website: www.nationalgallery.org.uk
Opening hours: Thurs-Tues 1000-1800, Wed 1000-2100.
Free admission; charge for some of the temporary exhibitions.
National Portrait Gallery
2 St Martin's Place, WC2
Tel: (020) 7312 2463 (recorded information) or 7306 0055.
Website: www.npg.org.uk
Opening hours: Sat-Wed 1000-1800, Thurs and Fri 1000-2100.
Free admission; charge for some of the temporary exhibitions.
Covent Garden
Covent Garden has long been associated with the market trade. For some 300 years, the area has hosted traders of all sorts of wares, perhaps most famously the fruit and vegetable market, which was centred in the Piazza. The market is still here, and today, the area is also home to many shops, bars and restaurants. The street performers, and the cheering crowds they attract, give the area a very special atmosphere, and make Covent Garden a must see for all first time visitors to London. The world famous Royal Opera House can be found here too. And of course Covent Garden is the heart of Theatreland: for a good retrospective, visit the Theatre Museum, which gives an overview of the evolution of the West End since 1843 to the present day. Another popular museum in the area is the London Transport Museum, which retraces the history and development of the city's transport system.
Piazza, Covent Garden
Website: www.coventgarden.uk.com
The Theatre Museum
Russell Street, Covent Garden, WC2E
Tel: (020) 7943 4700.
Website: www.theatremuseum.org.uk
Opening hours: 1000-1800 (Tue-Sun). Closed Mondays and bank holidays.
Free admission.
London Transport Museum
Piazza, Covent Garden
Tel: (020) 7379 6344 or 7565 7299.
Website: www.ltmuseum.co.uk
Opening hours: Closed until spring 2007.
Admission charge.
Buckingham Palace
Buckingham Palace, the London home of the Queen, is hugely popular with tourists. They flock to the palace, to witness royal pageantry dating back centuries at the Changing of the Guard ceremony, which takes place daily at 1130 from April to July and on alternate days at other times of the year. There is also the rare chance of seeing inside a royal residence (summer only). The building, by John Nash and Edward Blore, was built around the shell of the older of the older Buckingham House, in the 19th century. The rather drab façade was added in 1913. The 19 State Rooms of the Palace, including the Throne Room and the Picture Gallery, are only open to the public during August and September, when the Queen moves to her Scottish residence. The recently refurbished and expanded Queen's Gallery is open to the public throughout the year. It displays a changing exhibition of selected works from the Royal Collection, which covers five centuries' worth of art collecting and treasures, now held in trust by the Queen for the nation. The 17-hectare (42-acre) garden, long hidden from view, is also now open to visitors touring the palace.
Buckingham Palace Road, SW1
Tel: (020) 7321 2233 or (020) 7766 7300 (credit card booking line).
Website: www.royal.gov.uk
Opening hours: (26 July-24 Sep only) Daily 0945-1800 (last admission 1545).
Admission charge.
Tower Hill
The infamous royal fortress on Tower Hill, the Tower of London, was begun by William the Conqueror in 1078 and remained a royal residence until the mid-16th century. Today, it houses the priceless Crown Jewels and the Royal Armouries collection. The history of the tower is a catalogue of intrigue and bloodshed – key historical figures, including members of the royal family, were imprisoned, tortured and/or executed here. The nearby Tower Bridge (a prime example of Victorian architecture and engineering) spans the River Thames. Hydraulic machinery, hidden in twin neo-Gothic towers, lifts the central section to allow ships in and out of the Pool of London. Visitors can learn about the bridge in the Tower Bridge Experience or enjoy the excellent views towards Canary Wharf and the City of London. On the northeast side, the harbour at St Katharine's Dock marks the beginning of the London Docklands, while the warehouses to the south house the stylish Design Museum.
Tower Hill, EC3
Tower of London
Tel: 0870 756 6060.
Website: www.tower-of-london.org.uk
Opening hours: Tue-Sat 0900-1800 and Sun-Mon 1000-1800 (Mar-Oct); Tues-Sat 0900-1700 and Sun-Mon 1000-1700 (Nov-Feb); last admission one hour before closing.
Admission charge.
Tower Bridge Experience
Tower Hill, EC3
Tel: (020) 7403 3761.
Website: www.towerbridge.org.uk
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (last admission 1730).
Admission charge.
Design Museum
Shad Thames, SE1
Tel: 0870 833 9955.
Website: www.designmuseum.org
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1745.
Admission charge.
St Paul's Cathedral
The dome of St Paul's Cathedral is the third largest in the world and one of the most distinctive features of the London skyline. The present building, designed by Sir Christopher Wren, was completed in 1710, on the site of the original cathedral that was destroyed in the Great Fire of London in 1666. On the inside of the dome, the Whispering Gallery, named for its incredible acoustics, offers a close-up of the frescoes of the life of St Paul that decorate the interior of the dome. From there, visitors can climb higher, up to two further galleries, which are outdoors and which offer magnificent views across the whole of London. Guided tours are available, book in advance.
Paternoster Square, EC4
Tel: (020) 7246 8350.
Website: www.stpauls.co.uk
Transport: London Underground St Paul's.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0830-1600 (sightseeing); sightseeing is restricted on Sun and religious holidays.
Admission charge.
British Museum
The British Museum, the centrepiece of which is Lord Foster's glass-roofed Great Court, is one of the world's finest museums. Visitors must contend with a mind-boggling six million artefacts from all corners of the globe, plucked (or plundered) by collectors. The awesome scale of the museum means it is essential to select just a few of the 94 galleries for close attention. Highlights include the Rosetta Stone, a copy of the Magna Carta and the controversial Parthenon Sculptures, known as the Elgin Marbles, taken from the Parthenon in Athens. A 90-minute 'Highlights' tours is available daily at 1030, 1300 and 1500.
Great Russell Street, WC1
Tel: (020) 7323 8299 or 8181 for tickets.
Website: www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk
Opening hours: Sat-Wed1000-1730, Thurs-Fri 1000-2030.
Free admission, charge for some of the temporary exhibitions.
South Kensington Museums
The Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) is one of three major museums in South Kensington – the others being the Natural History Museum and the Science Museum. Founded in the 19th century as a museum of the decorative arts, the V&A's 11km (7 miles) of corridors trace a path through paintings, jewellery, furniture and textiles dating from 3000BC to the present day. Highlights include the Raphael Cartoons, the sculpture court, the dress collection from 1700 onwards, as well as the 'British Galleries 1500-1900', a comprehensive history of Britain's design and art.
The award winning Science Museum offers interactive exhibits on all kinds of scientific topics, from Space, Time or Weather to Agriculture or Food, from Computing or Mathematics to Nuclear Physics or Veterinary History. One key gallery is 'Making the Modern World', which includes objects such as early cars and computers.
The incredible Victorian building that is the Natural History Museum is divided into Earth Galleries and Life Galleries. The Earth Galleries explore our planet, while the Life Galleries explore the creatures that have inhabited it, from the dinosaurs to creepy crawlies. For live specimens, there is the Wildlife Garden outside. The new Darwin Centre houses the museum's extensive collections of specimens, which date as far back as the 16th century but also include recent new species discoveries. It also allows visitors to interact with the scientists using the collections and carrying out current research. Phase One is now open to the public, although Phase Two will complete the project in 2008.
V&A Museum
Cromwell Road, SW7
Tel: (020) 7942 2000 or 0870 442 0808.
Website: www.vam.ac.uk
Opening hours: Thurs-Tues 1000-1745, Wed and last Fri of the month 1000-2200.
Free admission; charge for some of the temporary exhibitions.
Science Museum
Exhibition Road, SW7
Tel: (020) 7942 4000 or 0870 870 4868.
Website: www.sciencemuseum.org.uk
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800.
Free admission.
Natural History Museum
Tel: (020) 7942 5000 or 7942 5011.
Website: www.nhm.ac.uk
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1750, Sun 1100-1750.
Free admission.
London’s Parks
Together, St James’s Park, Green Park, Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens stretch from Whitehall to Kensington in the west. St James’s Park and Green Park are at the heart of royal and governmental London, cantilevered around Buckingham Palace, while Hyde Park’s Speaker’s Corner is the place for soapbox philosophers to harangue passers-by on Sunday mornings. Kensington Gardens contains the delightful Serpentine Gallery, as well as the glittering Albert Memorial and the controversial Memorial Fountain in memory of Diana, Princess of Wales. Regent’s Park, just north of Oxford Circus, is home to London Zoo, while immediately next door is Primrose Hill, with a fabulous view and chic village atmosphere. Of the many other parks in London, two are huge but further out – Hampstead Heath in north London and Richmond Park in south London. Hampstead Heath boasts acres of natural parkland, the 18th-century Kenwood House, numerous bathing ponds and another fantastic view over the capital. Richmond Park is the largest open space in London, first enclosed as a hunting park by King Charles I in 1637, it still boasts deer. Last, but not least, Greenwich Park is the oldest enclosed royal park. Situated on a hilltop with impressive views across East London, it provides a setting for several historic buildings, including the Old Royal Observatory, the Royal Naval College, the National Maritime Museum and the Queen's House.
All Royal Parks (tel: (020) 7298 2000; website: www.royalparks.gov.uk), except Hampstead Heath (tel: (020) 7482 7073; website: www.cityoflondon.gov.uk).
Serpentine Gallery
Kensington Gardens, W2
Tel: (020) 7402 6075.
Website: www.serpentinegallery.org
Free admission.
London Zoo
Outer Circle, Regent's Park, NW1
Tel: (020) 7722 3333.
Website: www.londonzoo.com
Opening hours: 1000-1730 (Mar-Oct), 1000-1600 (Nov-Feb).
Admission charge.
Kenwood House
Hampstead Lane, NW3
Tel: (020) 8348 1286.
Website: www.english-heritage.org.uk
Opening hours: Daily 1100-1700 (24 Mar-31 Oct); 1100-1600 (1 Nov-23 Mar).
Free admission.
Highgate Cemetery
Resonating with the ghosts of such luminaries as Karl Marx and George Eliot, Highgate Cemetery is one of London’s most extraordinary places. With some of the finest Victorian funerary architecture in the country, many of the memorials are architecturally listed sites. The East Cemetery contains Karl Marx’s grave and monumental bust. The West Cemetery contains the remarkable Lebanon Circle, formed of 20 family catacombs surrounding an ancient cedar tree, as well as other notable monuments. Visitors can freely explore the East Cemetery but can only visit the West Cemetery by booking the one-hour guided tours in advance (by telephone).
Swains Lane, N6
Tel: (020) 8340 1834.
Website: http://highgate-cemetery.org
Opening hours: East Cemetery: Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Sat and Sun 1100-1700 (Apr-Oct); Mon-Fri 1000-1600, Sat and Sun 1100-1600 (Nov-Mar); last admission half an hour before closing. West Cemetery tours: Mon-Fri 1400 (Mar-Nov only); Sat and Sun 1100, 1200, 1300, 1400 and 1500; Mon-Fri 1400 (Mar-Nov only); Sat and Sun 1100, 1200, 1300, 1400, 1500 and 1600 (Apr-Oct).
Admission charge.
Tate Britain
The Gallery of Modern British Art opened in 1897, around the collection of sugar merchant Henry Tate. It now holds an unrivalled collection of English paintings from 1500 to the present day. Much 20th-century art has moved to the Tate Modern (see above), however, some remains on rotation here, from Gaudier Brzeska to Gilbert and George. There is also the 'Art Now' room, which shows a changing contemporary exhibition. The magnificent Turner Bequest is housed in the purpose-built Clore Gallery, with hundreds of Turner paintings on display.
Millbank, SW1
Tel: (020) 7887 8888 or 8008 (recorded information line).
Website: www.tate.org.uk
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1750.
Free admission; charge for some of the temporary exhibitions.
Dennis Severs' House
This house in Spitalfields is a work of art that transports its visitors out of the 21st century and sends them on a sensual and imaginative journey into an older, less familiar and more mystical world. It was built in the early 18th century, and its 10 rooms, decorated by the late Mr Severs, an American artist, represents domestic moods that dominated the periods between 1724 and 1914. The silent journey through the candle-lit and heavily scented and decorated rooms is no mere history lesson, however; it is just as much a journey of the soul. Nothing loud or flashy is on offer, just a quiet opportunity to catch a glimpse of a reality one hardly knew existed.
18 Folgate Street, Spitalfields
Tel: 0207 247 4013.
Website: www.dennissevershouse.co.uk
Admission charge.
Restaurants
British Airways London Eye and County Hall
Towering 135m (444ft) into the heavens, right in the heart of London, the BA London Eye is literally an unmissable attraction. The world's tallest observation wheel has become London's most popular attraction, which usually means a 'flight' requires booking in advance and often queuing as well. However, the experience (one revolution of the wheel, lasting approximately 30 minutes) is absolutely worth it – the unparalleled views of the city reach as far away as 40km (25 miles).
Although the London Eye is the focus of the area, sitting right next door and directly across the River Thames from the Houses of Parliament is County Hall, the former home of the Greater London Council. The enormous building is home to the London Aquarium, which features over 350 different aquatic species from around the world, and some huge water tanks, and the Dalí Universe, which contains over 500 works of art by the famous surrealist, including the painting Spellbound, which was created specially for the set of the 1945 Hitchcock thriller, and the sofa in the shape of Mae West's lips. County Hall is also home to two hotels, numerous bars and restaurants and a Namco Station, a vast entertainment centre offering video games, ten-pin bowling, bumper cars, a pool hall, as well as a licensed bar and lounge with big TV screens.
South Bank, SE1
BA London Eye
Jubilee Gardens, South Bank, SE1
Tel: 0870 500 0600 (booking line).
Website: www.ba-londoneye.com
Opening hours: Daily 0930-2000 (Oct-Apr); Mon-Thurs 0930-2000, Fri-Sun 0930-2100 (May and Sep); Mon-Thurs 0930-2100, Fri-Sun 0930-2200 (Jun); daily 0930-2200 (Jul and Aug); closed (6-26 Jan).
Admission charge.
London Aquarium
County Hall, Riverside Building, SE1
Tel: (020) 7967 8000.
Website: www.londonaquarium.co.uk
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (school holidays until 1900).
Admission charge.
Dalí Universe
County Hall, Riverside Building, SE1
Tel: 0870 744 7485.
Website: www.daliuniverse.com
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1730.
Admission charge.
Tate Modern and Bankside
Opened in 2000, the Tate Modern is a £130-million project that is regarded as a model of urban regeneration, with the disused Bankside power station transformed into an avant-garde space dedicated to 20th-century art. The permanent exhibition changes biannually so that much of the Tate Gallery's collection of modern work can be on show, displayed thematically rather than chronologically. This includes major works by Matisse, Picasso and Warhol, as well as contemporary pieces. The Turbine Hall displays changing pieces of artwork, specially commissioned to fit the enormous space. International artists who have exhibited here include Olafur Eliasson with his huge Sun installation and Anish Kapoor with Marsyas, a striking, huge sculpture in steel and dark red PVC.
The Bankside area itself is becoming one of the most exciting corners of the capital, and the £14-million Millennium Bridge is one of the newest additions here. Designed by Lord Foster, it provides a pedestrian link from the Tate Modern to St Paul's Cathedral on the north bank. Bankside's cultural regeneration is enhanced by the beautifully reconstructured Shakespeare's Globe Theatre & Exhibition, which is open all year round, although plays are only performed at the outdoor venue during the summer. Other attractions along the river, past Southwark Bridge towards London Bridge, include Vinopolis, an interactive celebration of wine, the Golden Hinde, a replica of Sir Francis Drake's flagship, and Southwark Cathedral, which is nestled under London Bridge, on the edge of the nearby Borough Market (website: www.boroughmarket.org.uk), a heaven for gourmets.
Bankside, SE1
Tate Modern
Bankside, SE1
Tel: (020) 7887 8888 or 8008 (recorded information line).
Website: www.tate.org.uk
Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 1000-1800, Fri and Sat 1000-2200.
Free admission (donations welcome); charge for some of the temporary exhibitions.
Shakespeare's Globe Theatre & Exhibition
21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1
Tel: (020) 7902 1400 or 7401 9919 for tickets.
Website: www.shakespeares-globe.org
Opening hours: Oct-30 Apr daily 1000-1700 (exhibition and theatre tour). May-Oct daily 0900-1200 (exhibition and theatre tour) and 1230-1700 (exhibition only).
Admission charge.
Vinopolis
1 Bank End, Bankside, SE1
Tel: 0870 241 4040.
Website: www.vinopolis.co.uk
Opening hours: Tues-Thurs and Sun 1200-1800; Mon, Fri and Sat 1200-2100.
Admission charge.
Palace of Westminster and Westminster Abbey
The Palace of Westminster contains the Houses of Parliament, part of which is one of the city's most famous landmarks - Big Ben. Big Ben is actually the name of the huge bell, whose tolling tune is instantly recognisable, while the clock tower itself, which rises above the seat of British government, is called St Stephen's. The most ancient part of the whole Palace, Westminster Hall, is 900 years old. After almost total destruction by fire, the rest of the palace was rebuilt in neo-Gothic style during the 19th century, to designs by Charles Barry.
During late July/August and mid September/early October, Parliament is in recess and the Summer Opening of the Palace of Westminster takes place. Extensive guided tours are offered for visitors; these last about 75 minutes and include the Royal Robing Rooms, the House of Lords and the House of Commons and Westminster Hall. These are not free and they must be booked in advance (in person or from Firstcall, see below). Visitors who want to watch Parliament at work, rather than tour the Palace, can watch from the Strangers' Gallery. When Parliament is in session, there are two long queues (one for the Lords and one for the Commons) outside the Palace.
Across Parliament Square is Westminster Abbey – a magnificent Gothic structure where innumerable members of the British royal family have been christened, married, crowned and interred. Consecrated under Edward the Confessor, in the 11th century, it was rebuilt over the next four centuries in Gothic style. Highlights include Henry VII's Chapel, Poet's Corner and the Coronation Chair.
Parliament Square, SW1
Summer Opening of the Palace of Westminster
Tel: 0870 906 3773 (Firstcall).
Website: www.parliament.uk or www.firstcalltickets.com
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0915-1630 or 1315-1630 (depending on schedules).
Admission charge.
Westminster Abbey
Tel: (020) 7654 4900.
Website: www.westminster-abbey.org
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1545 (Wed 1800) and Sat 0930-1345 (sightseeing; last admission one hour before closing); all day Sun (religious services only).
Admission charge, service free.
Trafalgar Square
London Mayor Ken Livingstone has made the once-congested and pigeon-infested Trafalgar Square a 'World Square', pedestrianising more of this famous space and banning seed-sellers, in an attempt to stop what he considers a nuisance. The pedestrianisation links Nelson's Column in the centre with the north side of the square, where one of the world's greatest galleries, the National Gallery, is to be found. It houses an incredible collection of Western paintings from the 13th to the early 20th century, as well as frequent special exhibitions. Round the corner, the National Portrait Gallery displays the country's famous, infamous and forgotten in the media of oil, watercolour, marble and photography. The new Ondaatje Wing includes a lecture theatre and restaurant. Opposite the gallery is the beautiful 18th-century neo-classical church, St Martin-in-the-Fields, which hosts regular concerts and has a café in the crypt.
Trafalgar Square, WC2
National Gallery
Trafalgar Square, WC2
Tel: (020) 7747 2885.
Website: www.nationalgallery.org.uk
Opening hours: Thurs-Tues 1000-1800, Wed 1000-2100.
Free admission; charge for some of the temporary exhibitions.
National Portrait Gallery
2 St Martin's Place, WC2
Tel: (020) 7312 2463 (recorded information) or 7306 0055.
Website: www.npg.org.uk
Opening hours: Sat-Wed 1000-1800, Thurs and Fri 1000-2100.
Free admission; charge for some of the temporary exhibitions.
Covent Garden
Covent Garden has long been associated with the market trade. For some 300 years, the area has hosted traders of all sorts of wares, perhaps most famously the fruit and vegetable market, which was centred in the Piazza. The market is still here, and today, the area is also home to many shops, bars and restaurants. The street performers, and the cheering crowds they attract, give the area a very special atmosphere, and make Covent Garden a must see for all first time visitors to London. The world famous Royal Opera House can be found here too. And of course Covent Garden is the heart of Theatreland: for a good retrospective, visit the Theatre Museum, which gives an overview of the evolution of the West End since 1843 to the present day. Another popular museum in the area is the London Transport Museum, which retraces the history and development of the city's transport system.
Piazza, Covent Garden
Website: www.coventgarden.uk.com
The Theatre Museum
Russell Street, Covent Garden, WC2E
Tel: (020) 7943 4700.
Website: www.theatremuseum.org.uk
Opening hours: 1000-1800 (Tue-Sun). Closed Mondays and bank holidays.
Free admission.
London Transport Museum
Piazza, Covent Garden
Tel: (020) 7379 6344 or 7565 7299.
Website: www.ltmuseum.co.uk
Opening hours: Closed until spring 2007.
Admission charge.
Buckingham Palace
Buckingham Palace, the London home of the Queen, is hugely popular with tourists. They flock to the palace, to witness royal pageantry dating back centuries at the Changing of the Guard ceremony, which takes place daily at 1130 from April to July and on alternate days at other times of the year. There is also the rare chance of seeing inside a royal residence (summer only). The building, by John Nash and Edward Blore, was built around the shell of the older of the older Buckingham House, in the 19th century. The rather drab façade was added in 1913. The 19 State Rooms of the Palace, including the Throne Room and the Picture Gallery, are only open to the public during August and September, when the Queen moves to her Scottish residence. The recently refurbished and expanded Queen's Gallery is open to the public throughout the year. It displays a changing exhibition of selected works from the Royal Collection, which covers five centuries' worth of art collecting and treasures, now held in trust by the Queen for the nation. The 17-hectare (42-acre) garden, long hidden from view, is also now open to visitors touring the palace.
Buckingham Palace Road, SW1
Tel: (020) 7321 2233 or (020) 7766 7300 (credit card booking line).
Website: www.royal.gov.uk
Opening hours: (26 July-24 Sep only) Daily 0945-1800 (last admission 1545).
Admission charge.
Tower Hill
The infamous royal fortress on Tower Hill, the Tower of London, was begun by William the Conqueror in 1078 and remained a royal residence until the mid-16th century. Today, it houses the priceless Crown Jewels and the Royal Armouries collection. The history of the tower is a catalogue of intrigue and bloodshed – key historical figures, including members of the royal family, were imprisoned, tortured and/or executed here. The nearby Tower Bridge (a prime example of Victorian architecture and engineering) spans the River Thames. Hydraulic machinery, hidden in twin neo-Gothic towers, lifts the central section to allow ships in and out of the Pool of London. Visitors can learn about the bridge in the Tower Bridge Experience or enjoy the excellent views towards Canary Wharf and the City of London. On the northeast side, the harbour at St Katharine's Dock marks the beginning of the London Docklands, while the warehouses to the south house the stylish Design Museum.
Tower Hill, EC3
Tower of London
Tel: 0870 756 6060.
Website: www.tower-of-london.org.uk
Opening hours: Tue-Sat 0900-1800 and Sun-Mon 1000-1800 (Mar-Oct); Tues-Sat 0900-1700 and Sun-Mon 1000-1700 (Nov-Feb); last admission one hour before closing.
Admission charge.
Tower Bridge Experience
Tower Hill, EC3
Tel: (020) 7403 3761.
Website: www.towerbridge.org.uk
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (last admission 1730).
Admission charge.
Design Museum
Shad Thames, SE1
Tel: 0870 833 9955.
Website: www.designmuseum.org
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1745.
Admission charge.
St Paul's Cathedral
The dome of St Paul's Cathedral is the third largest in the world and one of the most distinctive features of the London skyline. The present building, designed by Sir Christopher Wren, was completed in 1710, on the site of the original cathedral that was destroyed in the Great Fire of London in 1666. On the inside of the dome, the Whispering Gallery, named for its incredible acoustics, offers a close-up of the frescoes of the life of St Paul that decorate the interior of the dome. From there, visitors can climb higher, up to two further galleries, which are outdoors and which offer magnificent views across the whole of London. Guided tours are available, book in advance.
Paternoster Square, EC4
Tel: (020) 7246 8350.
Website: www.stpauls.co.uk
Transport: London Underground St Paul's.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0830-1600 (sightseeing); sightseeing is restricted on Sun and religious holidays.
Admission charge.
British Museum
The British Museum, the centrepiece of which is Lord Foster's glass-roofed Great Court, is one of the world's finest museums. Visitors must contend with a mind-boggling six million artefacts from all corners of the globe, plucked (or plundered) by collectors. The awesome scale of the museum means it is essential to select just a few of the 94 galleries for close attention. Highlights include the Rosetta Stone, a copy of the Magna Carta and the controversial Parthenon Sculptures, known as the Elgin Marbles, taken from the Parthenon in Athens. A 90-minute 'Highlights' tours is available daily at 1030, 1300 and 1500.
Great Russell Street, WC1
Tel: (020) 7323 8299 or 8181 for tickets.
Website: www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk
Opening hours: Sat-Wed1000-1730, Thurs-Fri 1000-2030.
Free admission, charge for some of the temporary exhibitions.
South Kensington Museums
The Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) is one of three major museums in South Kensington – the others being the Natural History Museum and the Science Museum. Founded in the 19th century as a museum of the decorative arts, the V&A's 11km (7 miles) of corridors trace a path through paintings, jewellery, furniture and textiles dating from 3000BC to the present day. Highlights include the Raphael Cartoons, the sculpture court, the dress collection from 1700 onwards, as well as the 'British Galleries 1500-1900', a comprehensive history of Britain's design and art.
The award winning Science Museum offers interactive exhibits on all kinds of scientific topics, from Space, Time or Weather to Agriculture or Food, from Computing or Mathematics to Nuclear Physics or Veterinary History. One key gallery is 'Making the Modern World', which includes objects such as early cars and computers.
The incredible Victorian building that is the Natural History Museum is divided into Earth Galleries and Life Galleries. The Earth Galleries explore our planet, while the Life Galleries explore the creatures that have inhabited it, from the dinosaurs to creepy crawlies. For live specimens, there is the Wildlife Garden outside. The new Darwin Centre houses the museum's extensive collections of specimens, which date as far back as the 16th century but also include recent new species discoveries. It also allows visitors to interact with the scientists using the collections and carrying out current research. Phase One is now open to the public, although Phase Two will complete the project in 2008.
V&A Museum
Cromwell Road, SW7
Tel: (020) 7942 2000 or 0870 442 0808.
Website: www.vam.ac.uk
Opening hours: Thurs-Tues 1000-1745, Wed and last Fri of the month 1000-2200.
Free admission; charge for some of the temporary exhibitions.
Science Museum
Exhibition Road, SW7
Tel: (020) 7942 4000 or 0870 870 4868.
Website: www.sciencemuseum.org.uk
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800.
Free admission.
Natural History Museum
Tel: (020) 7942 5000 or 7942 5011.
Website: www.nhm.ac.uk
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1750, Sun 1100-1750.
Free admission.
London’s Parks
Together, St James’s Park, Green Park, Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens stretch from Whitehall to Kensington in the west. St James’s Park and Green Park are at the heart of royal and governmental London, cantilevered around Buckingham Palace, while Hyde Park’s Speaker’s Corner is the place for soapbox philosophers to harangue passers-by on Sunday mornings. Kensington Gardens contains the delightful Serpentine Gallery, as well as the glittering Albert Memorial and the controversial Memorial Fountain in memory of Diana, Princess of Wales. Regent’s Park, just north of Oxford Circus, is home to London Zoo, while immediately next door is Primrose Hill, with a fabulous view and chic village atmosphere. Of the many other parks in London, two are huge but further out – Hampstead Heath in north London and Richmond Park in south London. Hampstead Heath boasts acres of natural parkland, the 18th-century Kenwood House, numerous bathing ponds and another fantastic view over the capital. Richmond Park is the largest open space in London, first enclosed as a hunting park by King Charles I in 1637, it still boasts deer. Last, but not least, Greenwich Park is the oldest enclosed royal park. Situated on a hilltop with impressive views across East London, it provides a setting for several historic buildings, including the Old Royal Observatory, the Royal Naval College, the National Maritime Museum and the Queen's House.
All Royal Parks (tel: (020) 7298 2000; website: www.royalparks.gov.uk), except Hampstead Heath (tel: (020) 7482 7073; website: www.cityoflondon.gov.uk).
Serpentine Gallery
Kensington Gardens, W2
Tel: (020) 7402 6075.
Website: www.serpentinegallery.org
Free admission.
London Zoo
Outer Circle, Regent's Park, NW1
Tel: (020) 7722 3333.
Website: www.londonzoo.com
Opening hours: 1000-1730 (Mar-Oct), 1000-1600 (Nov-Feb).
Admission charge.
Kenwood House
Hampstead Lane, NW3
Tel: (020) 8348 1286.
Website: www.english-heritage.org.uk
Opening hours: Daily 1100-1700 (24 Mar-31 Oct); 1100-1600 (1 Nov-23 Mar).
Free admission.
Highgate Cemetery
Resonating with the ghosts of such luminaries as Karl Marx and George Eliot, Highgate Cemetery is one of London’s most extraordinary places. With some of the finest Victorian funerary architecture in the country, many of the memorials are architecturally listed sites. The East Cemetery contains Karl Marx’s grave and monumental bust. The West Cemetery contains the remarkable Lebanon Circle, formed of 20 family catacombs surrounding an ancient cedar tree, as well as other notable monuments. Visitors can freely explore the East Cemetery but can only visit the West Cemetery by booking the one-hour guided tours in advance (by telephone).
Swains Lane, N6
Tel: (020) 8340 1834.
Website: http://highgate-cemetery.org
Opening hours: East Cemetery: Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Sat and Sun 1100-1700 (Apr-Oct); Mon-Fri 1000-1600, Sat and Sun 1100-1600 (Nov-Mar); last admission half an hour before closing. West Cemetery tours: Mon-Fri 1400 (Mar-Nov only); Sat and Sun 1100, 1200, 1300, 1400 and 1500; Mon-Fri 1400 (Mar-Nov only); Sat and Sun 1100, 1200, 1300, 1400, 1500 and 1600 (Apr-Oct).
Admission charge.
Tate Britain
The Gallery of Modern British Art opened in 1897, around the collection of sugar merchant Henry Tate. It now holds an unrivalled collection of English paintings from 1500 to the present day. Much 20th-century art has moved to the Tate Modern (see above), however, some remains on rotation here, from Gaudier Brzeska to Gilbert and George. There is also the 'Art Now' room, which shows a changing contemporary exhibition. The magnificent Turner Bequest is housed in the purpose-built Clore Gallery, with hundreds of Turner paintings on display.
Millbank, SW1
Tel: (020) 7887 8888 or 8008 (recorded information line).
Website: www.tate.org.uk
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1750.
Free admission; charge for some of the temporary exhibitions.
Dennis Severs' House
This house in Spitalfields is a work of art that transports its visitors out of the 21st century and sends them on a sensual and imaginative journey into an older, less familiar and more mystical world. It was built in the early 18th century, and its 10 rooms, decorated by the late Mr Severs, an American artist, represents domestic moods that dominated the periods between 1724 and 1914. The silent journey through the candle-lit and heavily scented and decorated rooms is no mere history lesson, however; it is just as much a journey of the soul. Nothing loud or flashy is on offer, just a quiet opportunity to catch a glimpse of a reality one hardly knew existed.
18 Folgate Street, Spitalfields
Tel: 0207 247 4013.
Website: www.dennissevershouse.co.uk
Admission charge.
Restaurants
It might not always have been the case, but with 6,000 licensed restaurant (over 20% of all restaurants in Britain), London is currently one of the most exciting dining destinations in the world, rivaled only by New York in terms of the number of internationally acclaimed chefs it attracts, and the sheer diversity of cuisines on offer (70 countries and regions in total). So indulge yourself in a little culinary experience during your stay in the capital.
The restaurants below have been classed into four different pricing categories:
$$$$ (over £70)
$$$ (£45 to £70)
$$ (£20 to £45)
$ (up to £20)
These prices are for a three course meal for one, including tax but not drinks.
A service charge of 12.5% will be added to your bill in most restaurants. This is technically an optional charge but it would be very unusual to ask for it to be removed. Where ‘Service is not included’, a tip of at least 10% is expected, although 12-15% is becoming more common. Diners should check the bill thoroughly, as tipping is not required on top of a service charge.
The restaurants below have been classed into four different pricing categories:
$$$$ (over £70)
$$$ (£45 to £70)
$$ (£20 to £45)
$ (up to £20)
These prices are for a three course meal for one, including tax but not drinks.
A service charge of 12.5% will be added to your bill in most restaurants. This is technically an optional charge but it would be very unusual to ask for it to be removed. Where ‘Service is not included’, a tip of at least 10% is expected, although 12-15% is becoming more common. Diners should check the bill thoroughly, as tipping is not required on top of a service charge.
Gastronomic
Gordon Ramsay at Royal Hospital Road
Still the only London restaurant with three Michelin stars, this remains the best place to experience Gordon Ramsay at work. In a comfortable but fairly neutral room (recently renovated), the focus is entirely on the food. All dishes are superb and might include the starter of a mosaic of foie gras served three ways (pressed, confit and smoked) with marinated figs and pickled girolles, followed by fillet of Aberdeen Angus beef with caramelised pig's trotters, quail's eggs, sautéed baby artichokes and truffle sauce. A seven-course Menu Prestige is available for £110 for those who wish to experience the full gastronomic experience. Reservations essential. Closed Saturday and Sunday.68 Royal Hospital Road, SW3
Tel: (020) 7352 4441.
Website: www.gordonramsay.com
Price: $$$$
Le Gavroche
Since its opening in 1967 by brothers Albert and Michel Roux, the smart, formal, dark and classically French Le Gavroche, with two Michelin stars, has been setting the culinary benchmark for the British restaurant scene. Currently run by Michel Roux Junior, with the assistance of award-winning maitre d' Silvano Giraldin, diners can expect the highest standards of food, wine and service – at prices to match. Highly praised dishes include loin of venison with peppery sauce and cranberries, and seared foie gras with a duck-flavoured and cinnamon pancake. French cooking at its best. The restaurant recently broke new ground and introduced a beer list to offer diners an alternative to wine with their meal. Reservations essential. No lunch Saturday. Closed Sunday.43 Upper Brook Street, W1
Tel: (020) 7408 0881.
Website: www.le-gavroche.co.uk
Price: $$$$
Lindsay House
Irish-born chef Richard Corrigan has made this Soho townhouse his home and gained a Michelin star in the process, by creating impeccable dishes in a grand but comfortable environment. Arriving at the discreet front door, diners must ring the bell to gain admittance, which heralds the beginning of an evening where the attentive staff treats them like the houseguests of a rich, absent host. The 1740s building quietly exudes charm, while guests pad up carpeted stairs to a small, elegant but simple dining room, with white walls, oil paintings, a grand fireplace and comfortable chairs. It is impossible not to feel at home, although there are two private dining rooms for those who really wish to be cocooned, as well as one other public dining room on the ground floor. The menu changes daily (Richard Corrigan tries to source all his ingredients from small suppliers) but, from the tiny wafer-thin cheesy biscuits served with a champagne cocktail, every dish is perfectly balanced, well presented and beautifully cooked. With an accessible and distinguished wine list, amuse bouche between every course and petits fours to round the whole thing off, nothing is forgotten in this most memorable establishment. Reservations essential. No lunch Saturday. Closed Sunday.21 Romilly Street, W1
Tel: (020) 7439 0450.
Website: www.lindsayhouse.co.uk
Price: $$$
Locanda Locatelli
The excellent Michelin-starred Locanda Locatelli, the brainchild of celebrity chef Giorgio Locatelli, serves up delectable Italian dishes in sleek surroundings with a glamorous 1970s feel. Four courses are recommended, so diners are able to enjoy an antipasto (such as the Traditional cured pork with potatoes and black truffle) but not miss out on a pasta dish, such as garganelli with red mullet and black olives or the Barolo and Castelmagno cheese risotto. Mains include a decent number of fish and meat dishes, served simply with one or two other ingredients, such as roast monkfish with walnut and caper sauce (vegetarians might be forced to indulge in a second pasta dish!), while desserts should not be missed. The restaurant is now open on Sunday. Reservations well in advance are essential.8 Seymour Street, W1
Tel: (020) 7935 9088 (reservations) or 8390 (confirmations/cancellations).
Website: www.locandalocatelli.com
Price: $$$
Nobu
This devastatingly fashionable restaurant, located on the first floor of the Metropolitan Hotel, provides award-winning Japanese cuisine melded with South American influences in a relaxed yet classy environment. Smiling, uniformed members of staff guide the diner through an extensive menu with head chef Mark Edwards at the helm. The presentation is impeccable and the food itself unique. Signature dishes include black cod marinated in miso, chocolate cake with tea-tree ice cream or sake with gold leaf. The place is also one of the best spots in town for sushi. There is plenty of opportunity for celebrity spotting. Reservations essential. No lunch weekends. Sister restaurant Nobu Berkeley opened on Berkeley Street in 2005.19 Old Park Lane, W1
Tel: (020) 7447 4747.
15 Berkeley Street, W1
Tel: (020) 7290 9222.
Website: www.noburestaurants.com
Price: $$$$
Business
Incognico
Nico Ladenis' unfussy West End restaurant provides the best-value set menu in London. For under £20, at lunchtime or early evening, diners can enjoy a well-composed three-course meal, with a choice of two dishes per course, from a menu that changes weekly. Dishes might include a brandade of salt cod in crispy pastry, followed by pork belly with fresh sauerkraut and Madeira sauce, and key lime tart. A decent mainly French à la carte menu is also available, including many fish dishes but few entirely vegetarian ones. The interior is cosy and uncluttered but the service can be patchy. A decent wine list has a helpful (or pretentious) adjective describing each wine. Closed Sunday.117 Shaftesbury Avenue, WC2
Tel: (020) 7836 8866.
Price: $$-$$$
The Ivy
The restaurant of choice of many a celebrity, The Ivy is notoriously difficult to get into without a famous name or advance booking of at least six weeks. Telephoning to reserve involves an intimidating call-back system. Once inside, however, the comfortable decor suggests a gentleman's club with dark wooden panelling and diamond-patterned stained-glass windows. The food is simple but of high quality and includes traditional British favourites, such as bangers and mash, potted shrimps or braised beef in stout, along with more European recipes, such as pork tenderloin on lemon polenta. The cosy environment, pleasing food and guaranteed celebrity spotting makes The Ivy a laid-back yet impressive venue for a business meal.1 West Street, WC2
Tel: (020) 7836 4751.
Website: www.the-ivy.co.uk
Price: $$$
Jaan
Don't be put off by the dull exterior of the Swissôtel in Temple Place. Tucked away at the back of the building, Jaan, the hotel's elegant restaurant, is a peaceful haven looking out to a lush rear terraced garden, and an ideal place to do lunch al fresco in the summer. The food, French cooking enhanced by delicate southeast Asian influences, is good modern fusion cuisine, and there are some interesting offerings on the menu, from starters like the pan-fried foie gras with caramelized banana, pineapple and coconut sorbet or the green miso soup (both excellent) to main courses such as duck a l'orange (served with a spring roll) or trio of beef (ribeye, braised short rib and Kobe beef served with wasabi, tempura and watercress) to green tea flavoured crème brulee with passion fruit and hibiscus or black sesame panacotta with lychee granite and cherry syrup for desserts. And the entremets (a soft ginger and lime granite for example, or a rhubarb oats muesli with a light vanilla cream), were little masterpieces in their own right. The wine pairing option, where each dish comes with a recommended wine by the glass to accompany it, is an added bonus.Swissôtel the Howard, Temple Place, WC2
Tel: (020) 7836 3555.
Website: www.london.swissotel.com
Price: $$-$$$
Matsuri High Holborn
So you thought Japanese food was about sushi and noodles and nothing else? Well, think again. Matsuri High Holborn does feature the obligatory sushi bar, yes, but the real action takes place downstairs in the Teppan-Yaki room, where expert chefs prepare flavoursome dishes on a hot plate right in front of customers. The entertainment factor is huge (order the fireball ice cream and you'll see why), the set-up makes for convivial eating, and the prices are more reasonable than one might expect. Given the length and breadth of the menu, it's hard to single out individual dishes for praise, but various set menus are a good choice for those wishing to sample a variety of Japanese specialities, including sushi, sashimi, tempura and teriyaki. Ideal for a business lunch or dinner with a difference! There is a private room for hire.71 High Holborn, WC1
Tel: (020) 7430 1970.
Website: www.matsuri-restaurant.com
Price: $$-$$$
Oxo Tower Restaurant, Bar and Brasserie
For panoramic views of London, there is no better place to eat than the restaurant at the top of the Thameside Oxo Tower. In good weather, diners can eat on the terrace, otherwise they take a seat in the stylish minimalist interior. At lunchtime, the place is a favourite venue for business meetings, with light, well-prepared food and a set menu available. In the evenings, the place takes on a more festive mood, with its busy bar set against the stunning London nightscape. The cuisine is modern European, with dishes such monkfish with oxtail, sprouting broccoli and parsnips or spiced tenderloin of lamb, peas, mint and coriander, however, too often the dishes sound promising but fail to shine. The service can also be poor, but with those views the Oxo Tower remains perennially popular.Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House Street, SE1
Tel: (020) 7803 3888.
Website: www.harveynichols.com
Price: $$$-$$$$
Theo Randall at the InterContinental
This new London restaurant has everything going for it - a lovely, spacious room with elegant, chic decor; clever seating that creates a social setting while also allowing guests privacy; friendly, helpful and knowledgeable staff; and a man at the helm who has been head chef at the River Cafe for more than a decade. But is it any good? The short answer: Absolutely. The long answer: Theo Randall specialises in modern, Italian gourmet cuisine, and the food, along with the service, the wine selection and the sommelier's advice, is rarely less than excellent. Some of the dishes, like the pan fried squid with borlotti beans, or the Scottish scallops with lentils, are superb. The roasted monkfish is also gorgeous, while the agnolotti, fresh pasta stuffed with veal, partridge, pancetta and parmesan, are a bit more subdued flavour-wise. The desserts are good too, and the Meyer lemon tart is simply sublime. What really makes this place special, however, is that it is the result not only of attention to detail, but also of a strong sense of balance and proportion. The food, the wine, the menu, the decor - all the elements seem to have been carefully judged in relation to each other. In short, a certain classicism, albeit a modern one, seems to pervade. It may indeed be the very element that can make Theo Randall a classic on the London restaurant scene.
InterContinental, 1 Hamilton Place, Park Lane
Tel: 0207 318 8747.
Website: www.theorandall.com
Price: $$$$
This new London restaurant has everything going for it - a lovely, spacious room with elegant, chic decor; clever seating that creates a social setting while also allowing guests privacy; friendly, helpful and knowledgeable staff; and a man at the helm who has been head chef at the River Cafe for more than a decade. But is it any good? The short answer: Absolutely. The long answer: Theo Randall specialises in modern, Italian gourmet cuisine, and the food, along with the service, the wine selection and the sommelier's advice, is rarely less than excellent. Some of the dishes, like the pan fried squid with borlotti beans, or the Scottish scallops with lentils, are superb. The roasted monkfish is also gorgeous, while the agnolotti, fresh pasta stuffed with veal, partridge, pancetta and parmesan, are a bit more subdued flavour-wise. The desserts are good too, and the Meyer lemon tart is simply sublime. What really makes this place special, however, is that it is the result not only of attention to detail, but also of a strong sense of balance and proportion. The food, the wine, the menu, the decor - all the elements seem to have been carefully judged in relation to each other. In short, a certain classicism, albeit a modern one, seems to pervade. It may indeed be the very element that can make Theo Randall a classic on the London restaurant scene.
InterContinental, 1 Hamilton Place, Park Lane
Tel: 0207 318 8747.
Website: www.theorandall.com
Price: $$$$
Trendy
The Electric Brasserie
Opened in 2002 as part of the refurbishment of Portobello's famous Electric Cinema, England's first purpose-built cinema. A major revamp brought in soft leather seating and chic wooden tables – and a suitably trendy following, coming for breakfast, lunch, dinner or just drinks in the bar area. With a huge range of brasserie-style dishes and great seafood available all day long, this comes as no surprise; it is especially popular for Sunday brunch – comfort food like chunky steak sandwiches or hamburgers with red onion marmalade. The à la carte menu gets slightly grander, with the addition of dishes like grilled dover sole or chateaubriand for two. There is also a joint on a trolley, which varies every evening but all Sunday is Aberdeen Angus beef with Yorkshire pudding. Open daily, although reservations recommended Thursday to Saturday.191 Portobello Road, W11
Tel: (020) 7908 9696.
Website: www.electricbrasserie.com
Price: $$
Hakkasan
This chic restaurant is situated down an alley in central London, which deters passing trade and helps heighten Hakkasan's sense of exclusivity. Once down the smart slate steps and past reception, the blue glass doors open on to a stunning, dimly lit, room, where a beautiful latticework screen encases the dining area. Unfortunately, the effect is best seen from the lounge-bar area outside, because once within this inner sanctum, with tables too close together and an ill-advised music policy, the magical effect is lost somewhat. Neverthless, the food makes up for everything – this is one of only five Chinese restaurants with a Michelin star. The lunchtime dim sum is so excellent that it is difficult to single out any one dish. Nevertheless, unmissable mains include the roasted silver cod with champagne and Chinese honey. However, just soaking up the atmosphere with the other trendy people is a viable alternative, given the exquisite, exotic concoctions on the famous cocktail list (all £8). Reservations highly recommended.8 Hanway Place, W1
Tel: (020) 7927 7000.
Price: $$$
Mash
Brainchild of entrepreneur Oliver Peyton, Mash is a novel combination of restaurant, bar, micro-brewery and deli, housed in a bright, open space just off Oxford Street. The bar and micro-brewery downstairs is open until 0200, serving a trendy post-work crowd stylish cocktails, heady own beers and Modern European dishes ranging from the snacky to the more substantial. Enormous beer vats encased in glass line the back wall, while chairs are space-age pods; there is also a sunken cushioned seating area. Upstairs, the quieter restaurant is more exclusive and the food slightly classier, such as roast rack of lamb with ratatouille of courgettes and peppers with green olive tapenade or baked halibut with sautéed potato, artichoke and Swiss chard with anchovy salsa. Trendy places come and go but this remains a reliably stylish West End choice. Closed Sunday.19–21 Great Portland Street, W1
Tel: (020) 7637 5555.
Website: www.mashbarandrestaurant.com
Price: $$
Sketch
French chef Pierre Gagnaire's first venture in London, this enormous 18th-century house has been divided into four different culinary experiences, all extravagantly designed by Mourad Mazouz. The Parlour on the ground floor is a frou-frou tea room, with pastries displayed in a jewellery case, while The Glade, the place to go for a light bite at lunchtime, features carpeting in shades of green, thick wooden tables and sunset-red walls. The Gallery is entirely white and filled with white furniture but has coloured light emanating from the ceiling and a huge frieze of video art; it serves lunch and dinner. However, the piece de resistance is The Lecture Room, with its dramatic design featuring luxurious padded walls studded with gold and its dramatic prices. The menu is divided into sections, with a dish or two underneath, so the starters consist of Red Mullet, Vegetables, Charcuterie, Langoustines and Crab. Mains are famed for unusual pairings, the sections include Poultry and White Truffles, Beef and Caviar, John Dory and Scallops. Reservations essential. Closed Sunday; The Lecture Room closed Monday as well.9 Conduit Street, W1
Tel: 0870 777 4488.
Website: www.sketch.uk.com
Price: $$$-$$$$
St John
This restaurant, an old smokehouse, is notorious for being pig heaven, where no bit of the animal is left off the menu. But it also happens to be home to one of the loveliest dining rooms in London. Up some stairs from the courtyard bar, this wonderful, light room is all wooden boards, white paint and chrome hanging lampshades. With tables a decent distance from each other, a friendly staff and an unpretentious mixed bag of diners creating a general hubbub, it is difficult not to recommend this place. This restaurant serves up old-fashioned British classics with absolute panache – boiled ham and parsley sauce, rabbit saddle, roast beef with a stunning horseradish sauce, eccles cakes with Lancashire cheese for dessert. Although one or two unusual cuts of meat (bone marrow, neck of kid, ox heart, pig's ears, tails, trotters, cheeks) are guaranteed. Whole roast suckling pigs can be pre-ordered for 14 diners, at least seven days in advance.26 St John Street, EC1
Tel: (020) 7251 0848.
Website: www.stjohnrestaurant.co.uk
Price: $$
Budget
Café Emm
This brasserie serves the best-value good food in Soho, so its no-booking policy means that a queue is inevitable unless it is very early evening. As well as various starters and snacks, there is a selection of main courses under £10, including Cajun-style chicken with potato skins, or home made salmon fish cakes, and the likes of fresh poached salmon or lamb moussaka. Salads also feature on the menu, and there is a daily special too. The dark-wood interior is packed with candle-lit tables and the service is brisk but not rushed.17 Frith Street, W1
Tel: (020) 7437 0723.
Website: www.cafeemm.com
Price: $
Duke of York
A quirky little gastropub in a quiet Bloomsbury street, the Duke of York is a relaxed yet vibrant place to spend an evening. Unlike most gastropubs, it is not overly trendy, overly crowded or overly priced. Diners can mingle with pub punters and eat in the brighter red-toned bar area, decorated with contemporary art, or instead sit in private, little booths in the back dining room. The usually tasty dishes range from British classics like Cumberland sausage and mash to more unusual daily specials, such as sea bream tempura with stir-fried noodles, although they can sometimes disappoint. Reservations recommended for dining area.7 Roger Street, WC1
Tel: (020) 7242 7230.
Website: www.dukepub.co.uk
Price: $
Golden Dragon
One of Chinatown's best restaurants, the Golden Dragon is bedecked in red and gold and has a noisy, bustling atmosphere. In the daytime (1200-1700), the dim sum selection, brought to the table in a never-ending parade of bamboo steamers, is of exemplary quality. Main dishes, available both night and day, are excellent value and come in generously sized portions. As well as all the standard dishes and more, some unusual dishes are on offer, such as eel or jelly fish, roast pigeon or even a whole suckling pig (available on order only).28-29 Gerrard Street, W1
Tel: (020) 7734 2763.
Price: $-$$
Gourmet Burger Kitchen
A burger place serving tasty food made of fresh ingredients? With consistently friendly service? And at very reasonable prices? Don't pinch yourself, because this place really does exist. In fact, the Gourmet Burger Kitchen (bless its arrival on the London budget eating scene! And yes, they are licensed too!) has not one, but nine outlets in the capital (all no smoking), including Belsize Park and West Hampstead in the north, Bayswater and Fulham in the west, and Wimbledon and Battersea in the south. So what's the deal? Well, there is a choice of over 20 burgers, running the gamut from the classic (100% Aberdeen-Angus Scotch beef with salad and the best relish in town) to wacky creations such as the kiwi burger (beetroot, egg, pineapple, cheese) or the Jamaican (beef, mango and ginger sauce). My personal favourite is the Pesterella (beef, fresh pesto, mozzarella, salad and relish). If beef is not your meat of choice, however, don't despair: you can also opt for the chicken, camembert and cranberry burger, or burgers made of chorizo, lamb or even venison! Oh, and there are even vegetarian options (falafel, or aubergine and goat's cheese for example).200 Havestock Hill, Belsize Park
Tel: (020) 7443 5335.
331 West End Lane, West Hampstead
Tel: (020) 7794 5455.
50 Westbourne Grove, Bayswater
Tel: (020) 7243 4344.
49 Fulham Broadway, Fulham
Tel: (020) 7381 4242.
Website: www.gbkinfo.com
Price: $
Rock and Sole Plaice
It is difficult to beat sitting upstairs at the Rock and Sole Plaice, near the fryers, watching the cooking and the takeaway punters and munching on a good plate of fresh fish with crispy batter, chunky chips and mushy peas (optional), while downing a good cuppa. Although, sitting on one of the picnic tables outside on a summer's evening, with a nice bottle of crisp white wine, might pip it. Fish and chips are a British institution and there are few places better to indulge than this, London's oldest surviving chippie. It serves up all the basic fishes (cod, rock, haddock, plaice, skate and scampi) and more specialities (halibut, lemon sole, dover sole, trout, salmon, sardines and mackerel), depending on market availability, as well as other chip-shop standards like pasties and pies.47 Endell Street, WC2
Tel: (020) 7836 3785.
Price: $
Personal Recommendations
La Trompette
Despite being situated in a quiet street in Chiswick, La Trompette has quickly established itself as one of London's favourite French restaurants, and anyone who has eaten there will know why. The restaurant is owned by the team behind Chez Bruce in Wandsworth, and manager Matthew Hough and head chef James Bennington have worked miracles in creating a genuinely world-class menu at out-of-town prices. The menu, Gallic of inspiration, changes daily but always features the freshest ingredients cooked with flair and inspiration. The chic modern interior has a buzz but never becomes too noisy, while most conversations seem to be dominated by discussions about the quality of the food at this fantastic-value restaurant.5-7 Devonshire Road, W4
Tel: (020) 8747 1836.
Website: www.latrompette.co.uk
Price: $$
One-O-One
Located on the ground floor of the Sheraton Park Tower in Knightsbridge, steps away from the trendy Harvey Nichols store, One-O-One is a restaurant no self-respecting fish enthusiast can afford to ignore. Pascal Proyart's little gem was voted 'Best Fish Restaurant' in Harden's London Restaurant Guide three years running (2003 to 2005), and it is plain to see why. The menu features mouth-watering offerings, the dishes are all expertly executed, and the service, friendly yet unobtrusive, is smooth as silk. Royal king crab legs from the Barents Sea with Aioli sauce were an exceptional (as well as sizeable) starter, and the pan-roasted sea scallops and duck foie gras was a heavenly combination of flavours and textures. Dover sole with roasted langoustine and chives Mousseline sauce was cooked to perfection, while the roasted wild seabass (one of Pascal's specialities) with soft tapenade crust and parsley Barigoule sauce, melted on the tongue. Divine! Just make sure you leave enough room for dessert: a raviole of pineapple and nougat glacé with coconut sorbet and exotic fruit coulis maybe?101 Knightsbridge, SW1
Tel: 0207 290 7101.
Price: $$$-$$$$
Pearl Restaurant
Named after the former Pearl Insurance Building on High Holborn, whose premises the restaurant occupies, Pearl is a thrilling new addition to the London dining scene, and no doubt one that will become a firm favourite with foodies in the capital. The recipe? Start with glamorous décor (think high ceilings and grey marble ionic columns, crisp white tablecloths, clever lighting, and thousands of pearls strung together to the most striking effect), add excellent modern French cuisine (expertly concocted by head chef Jun Tanaka) and an award-winning wine list with over 50 wines by the glass, and finish with live piano music and attentive yet not overzealous service. The result? You are onto a winner. An evening at Pearl is a truly memorable one, and for once in a city that has more than its fair share of mediocre, overpriced venues, this time you will remember your meal for all the right reasons: the food is the real star here, with a mouth-watering menu that features the likes of warm salad of rabbit with prunes or pigeon and foie gras terrine for starters (both succulent), and mains as varied as red mullet in orange and rosemary sauce or a quartet of pork offering four different cuts on one plate (again, both delicious and cooked to perfection). Nothing's left to chance, not even the appetizers (ours included melt-in-the-mouth rabbit rillettes) or the cheese board (which featured an exceptional selection). Well worth splashing out for.252 High Holborn, WC1V
Tel: (020) 7829 7000.
Website: www.pearl-restaurant.com
Price: $$$
Veeraswamy
London's oldest Indian restaurant has been the rendez vous of Indian food lovers for decades. Since 1926 in fact. And its much talked about new incarnation post 80th-birthday refurbishment does this institution proud. Both exotic and luxurious, with dark wood and silver screens perfectly offset by Indian coloured glass shades, the interior and the lighting are spot on, and ideal for a perfect romantic evening. The food is a blend of traditional favourites and more modern concoctions, and includes traditional regal recipes but also jazzed up versions of more modest (but just as tasty) Indian street food. There are dishes from the north of India, such as nizami murgh, a chicken dish with pine nuts, lemon and rose petals hailing from the royal kitchens of Hyderabad, or lamb biryani, one of the best we'd tried in a long time. But seafood and southern dishes also feature prominently: lobster is one of the specialities here, and there are plenty of other tempting offerings on the menu, ranging from oyster kebabs to green prawns and red snapper, and sea bream paturi (banana leaf parcels of fillets of bream, steamed in a chilli and mustard sauce). I opted for an exquisite starter of mussels in coconut and ginger sauce, and was not disappointed. The best thing I had, however, was a side dish of tandoor clove smoked aubergine caviar, which was positively out of this world! So light and flavoursome, I wiped my plate clean before my date could say 'rumali roti' (the name of the flat handkerchief bread that came with it). The wine list is cleverly arranged by wine type, such as light, bone dry and refreshing or rich and structured for whites, and juicy, fresh and fruity or intense and full-bodied for reds, so that you don't have to be a wine buff to select something to match your food, although a friendly sommelier is on hand to help out anyway.Victory House, 99 Regent Street (entrance on Swallow Street), W1
Tel: (020) 7734 1401.
Website: www.realindianfood.com
Price: $$$
Yauatcha
Where can you find a seriously stylish, fun restaurant that also serves exceptionally good food? Look no further than Yauatcha, the Soho new-comer everybody is talking about. Chinese is not my favourite, and being unable to book a table before 2200 was not a good start (the price to pay for the restaurant's popularity, I suppose: even at that time the place was still packed!), but then these complaints faded away the minute our order arrived. Opt, as we did, for the dim sum, which is to kill for. The menu is extensive, and you will be spoilt for choice: from fried prawn and date parcels to steamed duck and shiitake mushroom rolls to roast venison puffs (to mention but a few), our selection was exquisite, moist and flavoursome, well presented, and, what's more, served with a smile. And the desserts (lemon and ginger soufflé and green tea crème brulée and raspberry sorbet) were excellent too. The main dining room downstairs (think candles on the walls, twinkling stars in the ceiling, and a very long fish tank running the length of the bar counter) is much more atmospheric than the one on the ground floor upstairs, so do remember that when you book… Not often do you see such expert cuisine served in such beautiful surroundings at such reasonable prices in London: do believe the hype for once and go check it out for yourself.15-17 Broadwick Street, W1
Tel: (020) 7494 8888.
Price: $$
