Settled since Neolithic times, Geneva became an imperial city in 1032, under Emperor Conrad II, before achieving independence in 1530 and joining the Swiss Confederation in 1814. Geneva's reputation for religious tolerance during the Reformation proved to be a major influence on its subsequent development. For centuries, exiles from religious or political persecution chose the city as their refuge, ranging from the English regicides in the 17th century to Lenin in the early 20th century. Even the manufacture of watches was fostered by one of the most intolerant of religious exiles, John Calvin, who lived here from 1541 to his death in 1564. This extraordinary mix of nationalities, coupled with the fact that most émigrés were of an intellectual disposition, led to the establishment of disparate centres of learning. These soon developed such a fine reputation that Geneva became a popular choice for the sons (and later daughters) of well-to-do families to finish their education.
Switzerland's famed neutrality had a part to play in encouraging international organisations to locate their headquarters in Geneva, which today boasts over 200, raising an always numerous foreign community to one-third of the population. The catalyst for choosing Geneva was the decision in 1919 to set up the headquarters of the League of Nations, predecessor of the United Nations, in the city. Although the UN moved to New York in 1945, Geneva has kept its European office here. Other important organisations based in the city are the International Committee of the Red Cross (founded by the Swiss Henri Dunant in 1864) and the World Health Organisation.
The city is also a major banking centre (a 'city of wealth by stealth' as the British actor Robert Morley put it) and plays a significant role in the manufacture of watches, scientific instruments, jewellery and foodstuffs. These roles have contributed to it being an expensive city in which to live or stay, although it has much to offer the visitor, principally the Old Town and some fine museums. Geneva is an efficient, clean city. Its excellent public transport system, coupled with the ease and pleasure of walking around the centre, make a car unnecessary, even a nuisance.
The city enjoys a mild central European climate with relatively low rainfall. The super-rich community of international civil servants and tax exiles demand good food, top hotels and entertainment and Geneva provides it all. Beneath the stereotypical veneer of diamonds and watches, however, one finds a tolerant and safe society with the Genevois strangely similar to the British – reserved but courteous.
Sightseeing
Most of Geneva’s attractions can be covered on foot, with the exception of Lake Geneva (Lac Léman). Motorboats, affectionately named mouettes (seagulls), crisscross the lake, providing excellent views of Geneva, as well as a close-up shot of the city emblem, the Jet d’Eau. The Old Town is dominated by the Cathédrale St-Pierre, situated next to the Auditoire, the church in which Calvin taught and John Knox preached and supervised the production of the Geneva Bible. In the city centre, there is the Ile Rousseau, a little island in the River Rhône, off the Pont des Bergues, with a statue of Jean-Jacques Rousseau and a superb view of the port of Geneva.
Geneva is known as the ‘City of Parks’. As well as the Jardin Anglais, the city centre boasts the Promenade des Bastions, below the Old Town walls, which contains the famous Reformation Wall and giant outdoor chess pieces. Many of the parks are situated on the shores of the lake. On the rive gauche (left bank) are the Eaux-Vives and La Grange – the latter contains the ruins of a Roman villa and fine rose garden, where the annual International Rose Competition is held. On the rive droite (right bank), Ariana Park surrounds the museum of that name and the Palais des Nations, while nearer to the lake is the Jardin Botanique. The central point of the River Rhône is marked by the ruins of a medieval fort, the Tour de l’Ile.
Geneva is known as the ‘City of Parks’. As well as the Jardin Anglais, the city centre boasts the Promenade des Bastions, below the Old Town walls, which contains the famous Reformation Wall and giant outdoor chess pieces. Many of the parks are situated on the shores of the lake. On the rive gauche (left bank) are the Eaux-Vives and La Grange – the latter contains the ruins of a Roman villa and fine rose garden, where the annual International Rose Competition is held. On the rive droite (right bank), Ariana Park surrounds the museum of that name and the Palais des Nations, while nearer to the lake is the Jardin Botanique. The central point of the River Rhône is marked by the ruins of a medieval fort, the Tour de l’Ile.
Tourist Information
Geneva Tourist Office
Rue du Mont-Blanc 18
Tel: (022) 909 7000.
Website: www.geneve-tourisme.ch
Opening hours: Mon 1000-1800, Tues-Sun 0900-1800 (Closed Sun from Sep to mid Jun).
Rue du Mont-Blanc 18
Tel: (022) 909 7000.
Website: www.geneve-tourisme.ch
Opening hours: Mon 1000-1800, Tues-Sun 0900-1800 (Closed Sun from Sep to mid Jun).
Passes
Two-thirds of the city’s museums do not charge for admission. The Private Museums of Geneva, which comprises seven of Geneva museums (the Baur Collections, the Martin Bodmer Foundation, the Institute and Museum of Swiss around the World, the Barber-Mueller Museum, the International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum, the International Reform Museum and the Patek Philippe Museum), do charge admission, and have issued a pass, valid for three months, which is available from the tourist office and participating museums, giving discounted entry to the various museums.
Cathédral de St Pierre (St Peter's Cathedral)
Built between 1160 and 1289, St Peter's Cathedral is surprisingly small. Even more surprising is its combination of Romanesque, Gothic, and neo-classical styles. The austerity of the main body of the church is wholly appropriate for a building in which John Calvin preached (1536-1564). However, the 15th-century Chapel of the Maccabees, restored in 1875, is a riot of gilded embellishment against blue and red grounds that recall the decoration of Cardiff Castle and Castell Coch by William Burges. The neo-classical façade was added in 1750. Under the cathedral is one of Europe's largest underground archaeological sites with some good 14th-century mosaics, while the top of the north tower offers fine views over the old town and lake.
Cour St-Pierre
Tel: (022) 311 7575.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1200 and 1400-1700, Sun 1100-1230 and 1330-1700 (Oct-May); Mon-Sat 0900-1900 and Sun 1100-1900 (Jun-Sep).
Free admission, charge for the tower.
Jardin Anglais (English Garden) and Horloge Fleurie (Flower Clock)
The English Garden, dating from 1854, is home to the Monument National, a statue of two young women – the 'Republic of Geneva' and 'Helvetia', symbolising Geneva's attachment to the Swiss Confederation on 12 September 1814. Within the park there is an elegant bronze fountain and L'Horloge Fleurie (Flower Clock) (decorated with over 6,300 plants) that was installed in 1955 to honour Geneva's watch-making industry. The clock is the largest in the world – 5m (16.4ft) in diameter and 17.7m (58ft) in circumference. Its second hand advances nearly 27cm (10.6 inches) per second.
Quai Général Guisan
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Free admission.
Jet d'Eau (Water Fountain)
The famed Water Fountain is the Eiffel Tower of Geneva, an impressive 140m (459ft) fountain that dominates the Geneva harbour and all modern depictions of the city. The Jet was originally the safety valve for the city's water supply and is Europe's tallest fountain. This water showpiece is illuminated at night, however, during the day, the fountain takes care of the special effects for itself – when the sun shines, a rainbow hovers behind the powerful jet of water, which spurts straight up into the sky at a speed of 200kph (125mph).
On the Rive Gauche, off Quai Gustave Ador and the Horloge Fleurie in the Jardin Anglais
Operating hours: Daily 0930-2315 (Mar-mid-Oct), subject to weather conditions.
Free admission.
Mur des Réformateurs (Reformation Wall)
Construction of the 60ft (18m) Reformation Wall began in 1909, on the 400th anniversary of the birth of John Calvin. The monument is dedicated to the four figures central to the Reformation movement – John Calvin (1509-64), Théodore de Bèze (1513-1605), John Knox (1513-72) and Guillaume Farel (1549-65).
Parc des Bastions
Opening hours: Dawn to dusk.
Free admission.
Jardin Botanique (Botanical Gardens)
Geneva's world-renowned Botanical Gardens were created by the botanist A P de Candolle, in the Parc des Bastions in 1817. Relocated to their present site in 1901, the 28-hectare (69-acre) gardens have greenhouses with tropical plants from six continents, a pond brimming with aquatic plants, thousands of flowers, a garden of the senses, an aviary and a park of rare animals, as well as a research laboratory, herbarium collection and extensive library.
Chemin de l'Impératrice 1, Chambésy
Tel: (022) 418 5100.
Website: www.cjb.unige.ch
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700 (Oct-Mar); daily 0800-1930 (Apr-Sep).
Free admission.
Palais des Nations (Palace of Nations)
This vast building, designed in the form of a double horseshoe and set in a park with century-old trees, is the largest United Nations centre after New York. It was built between 1929 and 1937 to host the League of Nations, the precursor to the UN. Visits are extremely popular and allow entrance to certain conference rooms (including the Council Room with frescoes by José Maria Sert, and the Assembly Hall) and an opportunity to sign the Livre d'Or, the golden book of peace.
Avenue de la Paix 14
Tel: (022) 917 4896.
Website: www.unog.ch
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1200 and 1400-1600; 1000-1700 (Jul-Aug). Tours are available, and must be booked in advance. ID is necessary.
Admission charge.
MAMCO (Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art)
Situated in a former factory, this museum extends over four floors that are best visited from top to bottom. One of the permanent displays is L'Appartement, a faithful reproduction of a Parisian collector's flat, for which he has loaned his own furniture, paintings and sculptures.
Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 10
Tel: (022) 320 6122.
Website: www.mamco.ch
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1200-1800; Sat-Sun 1100-1800; closed Mon.
Admission charge.
Musée International de la Croix-Rouge et du Croissant-Rouge (International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum)
With a powerful combination of audiovisuals, sculpture, computers and documentation, this extraordinary museum tells the story of the founding of the Red Cross by Henry Dunant, as well as its present humanitarian actions. It is Geneva's most impressive and original museum. The Café Dinant also is a multimedia area.
Avenue de la Paix 17
Tel: (022) 748 9525.
Website: www.micr.org
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700; closed Tues.
Admission charge.
Musée d'Art et d'Histoire (Museum of Art and History)
The Museum of Art and History presents a multidiscipline approach to history (from prehistoric times to the present) through important collections of fine art, archaeology and applied art, including arms and armour, costumes and musical instruments. The most celebrated work is Konrad Witz's early 15th-century painting, La Pêche Miraculeuse.
Rue Charles-Galland 2
Tel: (022) 418 2600.
Website: http://mah.ville-ge.ch
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700.
Free admission.
Musée de l'Horlogerie et de l'Émaillerie (Clock and Watch Museum)
Set in an attractive Palladian townhouse, this museum traces the development of Genevois clock making, which began in the 17th century and reached its height in 1785. Of particular interest is the watch that was owned and made by Jean-Jacques Rousseau's grandfather (in the form of a skull that splits in half to reveal the time) and an astronomic automated clock made in 1711.
Route de Malagnou 15
Tel: (022) 418 6470.
Website: www.ville-ge.ch/geneve/culture/musees/musees/horlogerie.htm
Opening hours: The museum is currently closed to the public. It will reopen in 2009.
Free admission, charge for temporary exhibitions.
Maison Tavel (Tavel House)
The one-towered Tavel House is named after the noble Tavel family, who lived here in the 14th century. Today a museum, it provides an insight into the day-to-day lives of Genevois from the 14th to 19th centuries. The attic houses the Magnin Maquette of 1896, a huge relief model of Geneva before 1850, with its city walls still in place.
Rue du Puits-Saint-Pierre 6
Tel: (022) 418 3700.
Website: www.ville-ge.ch/geneve/culture/musees/musees/tavel.htm
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700.
Free admission, charge for temporary exhibitions.
Carouge
This little artisan town, 2km (1 mile) south of the city centre, is full of book and antique restorers, glass blowers, watchmakers, clothes designers, hatters, bistros and restaurants. In 1772, the people of Turin (the capital of the kingdom of Sardinia) came to set up a town to rival Geneva. Carouge changed hands frequently but, in 1816, the town was annexed to Geneva and became Swiss. Its architecture remains Italianate in style and the narrow streets are straight and orderly, with apartments looking onto wide, green courtyards. Many are open to the public, such as the courtyard of Rue Vautier (opposite number 43) and the courtyard of the Musée de Carouge.
Carouge
Website: www.carouge.ch
Musée de Carouge
Place de Sardaigne 2
Tel: (022) 342 3383.
Website: www.ville-ge.ch/geneve/culture/musees/musees/carouge.htm
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1400-1800.
Free admission.
Large Electron Positron Collider
The world’s largest scientific instrument, the Large Hadron Collider (LHC), straddles the border between Switzerland and France, just outside Geneva. Operated by CERN (European Centre for Nuclear Research), the particle accelerator lies in a 27km- (17 mile-) long tunnel. It is used to study the outcome of high-speed collision between constituent parts of atoms, mimicking (for a split second) the apparent state of the universe at the moment of its creation. The exhibition explains how particles are accelerated to near the speed of light and what has been learnt from over a decade of experiments. The LHC is due to switch on in 2007.
Off the road to St Genis, France, on the Route de Meyrin
Tel: (022) 767 8484.
Website: www.cern.ch
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1700.
Free admission.
Restaurants
Cathédral de St Pierre (St Peter's Cathedral)
Built between 1160 and 1289, St Peter's Cathedral is surprisingly small. Even more surprising is its combination of Romanesque, Gothic, and neo-classical styles. The austerity of the main body of the church is wholly appropriate for a building in which John Calvin preached (1536-1564). However, the 15th-century Chapel of the Maccabees, restored in 1875, is a riot of gilded embellishment against blue and red grounds that recall the decoration of Cardiff Castle and Castell Coch by William Burges. The neo-classical façade was added in 1750. Under the cathedral is one of Europe's largest underground archaeological sites with some good 14th-century mosaics, while the top of the north tower offers fine views over the old town and lake.
Cour St-Pierre
Tel: (022) 311 7575.
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 1000-1200 and 1400-1700, Sun 1100-1230 and 1330-1700 (Oct-May); Mon-Sat 0900-1900 and Sun 1100-1900 (Jun-Sep).
Free admission, charge for the tower.
Jardin Anglais (English Garden) and Horloge Fleurie (Flower Clock)
The English Garden, dating from 1854, is home to the Monument National, a statue of two young women – the 'Republic of Geneva' and 'Helvetia', symbolising Geneva's attachment to the Swiss Confederation on 12 September 1814. Within the park there is an elegant bronze fountain and L'Horloge Fleurie (Flower Clock) (decorated with over 6,300 plants) that was installed in 1955 to honour Geneva's watch-making industry. The clock is the largest in the world – 5m (16.4ft) in diameter and 17.7m (58ft) in circumference. Its second hand advances nearly 27cm (10.6 inches) per second.
Quai Général Guisan
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Free admission.
Jet d'Eau (Water Fountain)
The famed Water Fountain is the Eiffel Tower of Geneva, an impressive 140m (459ft) fountain that dominates the Geneva harbour and all modern depictions of the city. The Jet was originally the safety valve for the city's water supply and is Europe's tallest fountain. This water showpiece is illuminated at night, however, during the day, the fountain takes care of the special effects for itself – when the sun shines, a rainbow hovers behind the powerful jet of water, which spurts straight up into the sky at a speed of 200kph (125mph).
On the Rive Gauche, off Quai Gustave Ador and the Horloge Fleurie in the Jardin Anglais
Operating hours: Daily 0930-2315 (Mar-mid-Oct), subject to weather conditions.
Free admission.
Mur des Réformateurs (Reformation Wall)
Construction of the 60ft (18m) Reformation Wall began in 1909, on the 400th anniversary of the birth of John Calvin. The monument is dedicated to the four figures central to the Reformation movement – John Calvin (1509-64), Théodore de Bèze (1513-1605), John Knox (1513-72) and Guillaume Farel (1549-65).
Parc des Bastions
Opening hours: Dawn to dusk.
Free admission.
Jardin Botanique (Botanical Gardens)
Geneva's world-renowned Botanical Gardens were created by the botanist A P de Candolle, in the Parc des Bastions in 1817. Relocated to their present site in 1901, the 28-hectare (69-acre) gardens have greenhouses with tropical plants from six continents, a pond brimming with aquatic plants, thousands of flowers, a garden of the senses, an aviary and a park of rare animals, as well as a research laboratory, herbarium collection and extensive library.
Chemin de l'Impératrice 1, Chambésy
Tel: (022) 418 5100.
Website: www.cjb.unige.ch
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1700 (Oct-Mar); daily 0800-1930 (Apr-Sep).
Free admission.
Palais des Nations (Palace of Nations)
This vast building, designed in the form of a double horseshoe and set in a park with century-old trees, is the largest United Nations centre after New York. It was built between 1929 and 1937 to host the League of Nations, the precursor to the UN. Visits are extremely popular and allow entrance to certain conference rooms (including the Council Room with frescoes by José Maria Sert, and the Assembly Hall) and an opportunity to sign the Livre d'Or, the golden book of peace.
Avenue de la Paix 14
Tel: (022) 917 4896.
Website: www.unog.ch
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1200 and 1400-1600; 1000-1700 (Jul-Aug). Tours are available, and must be booked in advance. ID is necessary.
Admission charge.
MAMCO (Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art)
Situated in a former factory, this museum extends over four floors that are best visited from top to bottom. One of the permanent displays is L'Appartement, a faithful reproduction of a Parisian collector's flat, for which he has loaned his own furniture, paintings and sculptures.
Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 10
Tel: (022) 320 6122.
Website: www.mamco.ch
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 1200-1800; Sat-Sun 1100-1800; closed Mon.
Admission charge.
Musée International de la Croix-Rouge et du Croissant-Rouge (International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum)
With a powerful combination of audiovisuals, sculpture, computers and documentation, this extraordinary museum tells the story of the founding of the Red Cross by Henry Dunant, as well as its present humanitarian actions. It is Geneva's most impressive and original museum. The Café Dinant also is a multimedia area.
Avenue de la Paix 17
Tel: (022) 748 9525.
Website: www.micr.org
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700; closed Tues.
Admission charge.
Musée d'Art et d'Histoire (Museum of Art and History)
The Museum of Art and History presents a multidiscipline approach to history (from prehistoric times to the present) through important collections of fine art, archaeology and applied art, including arms and armour, costumes and musical instruments. The most celebrated work is Konrad Witz's early 15th-century painting, La Pêche Miraculeuse.
Rue Charles-Galland 2
Tel: (022) 418 2600.
Website: http://mah.ville-ge.ch
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700.
Free admission.
Musée de l'Horlogerie et de l'Émaillerie (Clock and Watch Museum)
Set in an attractive Palladian townhouse, this museum traces the development of Genevois clock making, which began in the 17th century and reached its height in 1785. Of particular interest is the watch that was owned and made by Jean-Jacques Rousseau's grandfather (in the form of a skull that splits in half to reveal the time) and an astronomic automated clock made in 1711.
Route de Malagnou 15
Tel: (022) 418 6470.
Website: www.ville-ge.ch/geneve/culture/musees/musees/horlogerie.htm
Opening hours: The museum is currently closed to the public. It will reopen in 2009.
Free admission, charge for temporary exhibitions.
Maison Tavel (Tavel House)
The one-towered Tavel House is named after the noble Tavel family, who lived here in the 14th century. Today a museum, it provides an insight into the day-to-day lives of Genevois from the 14th to 19th centuries. The attic houses the Magnin Maquette of 1896, a huge relief model of Geneva before 1850, with its city walls still in place.
Rue du Puits-Saint-Pierre 6
Tel: (022) 418 3700.
Website: www.ville-ge.ch/geneve/culture/musees/musees/tavel.htm
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1700.
Free admission, charge for temporary exhibitions.
Carouge
This little artisan town, 2km (1 mile) south of the city centre, is full of book and antique restorers, glass blowers, watchmakers, clothes designers, hatters, bistros and restaurants. In 1772, the people of Turin (the capital of the kingdom of Sardinia) came to set up a town to rival Geneva. Carouge changed hands frequently but, in 1816, the town was annexed to Geneva and became Swiss. Its architecture remains Italianate in style and the narrow streets are straight and orderly, with apartments looking onto wide, green courtyards. Many are open to the public, such as the courtyard of Rue Vautier (opposite number 43) and the courtyard of the Musée de Carouge.
Carouge
Website: www.carouge.ch
Musée de Carouge
Place de Sardaigne 2
Tel: (022) 342 3383.
Website: www.ville-ge.ch/geneve/culture/musees/musees/carouge.htm
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1400-1800.
Free admission.
Large Electron Positron Collider
The world’s largest scientific instrument, the Large Hadron Collider (LHC), straddles the border between Switzerland and France, just outside Geneva. Operated by CERN (European Centre for Nuclear Research), the particle accelerator lies in a 27km- (17 mile-) long tunnel. It is used to study the outcome of high-speed collision between constituent parts of atoms, mimicking (for a split second) the apparent state of the universe at the moment of its creation. The exhibition explains how particles are accelerated to near the speed of light and what has been learnt from over a decade of experiments. The LHC is due to switch on in 2007.
Off the road to St Genis, France, on the Route de Meyrin
Tel: (022) 767 8484.
Website: www.cern.ch
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1700.
Free admission.
Restaurants
Gastronomic
Auberge du Lion d'Or
Located in the Cologny district (the Beverly Hills of Geneva) the Auberge du Lion d'Or (Golden Lion) Michelin-starred fish restaurant, offers panoramic views of the city and Lake Geneva. The restaurant is decorated in a smart, classical style and guests can enjoy alfresco dining on the terrace in summer. Two chefs, French Gilles Dupont and Thomas Byrne from Ireland, create delicacies such as langoustine with lemon grass and vinaigrette, which are enhanced by an excellent choice of fine, international wines. Closed Saturday and Sunday.Place Pierre-Gautier 5, Cologny
Tel: (022) 736 4432.
Website: www.liondor.ch
Price: $$$$
Le Cygne
Located on floor 'E' of the luxurious Le Palace Hilton, Le Cygne (The Swan) offers wonderful views over Lake Geneva. The restaurant itself is decorated in a classical style with warm tones. Chef Olivier Villette serves light but traditional French cuisine accompanied by an excellent wine list, sprinkled with a good mix of local wines. Specialities include carpaccio de langoustines à l'huile de Maussane (lobster carpaccio) and fillet mignon stuffed with foie gras and Sichaun pepper. Unlike many of Geneva's restaurants, which are only open during the working week, Le Cygne is open daily.Le Palace Hilton, Quai du Mont-Blanc 19
Tel: (022) 908 9085.
Website: www.hilton.com
Price: $$$$
Le Neptune
The god of the sea rules at this Michelin-starred restaurant, situated in the Mandarin Oriental Hôtel du Rhône. The award-winning restaurant offers a highly acclaimed seasonal menu, overseen by executive chef Franck Ferigutti, with a heavy slant on fish and seafood, as one would expect given the name of the restaurant. The wine list features exceptional vintages from France, Italy and Switzerland, as well as an exclusive selection from the finest regional boutique wineries. This modern-style restaurant, which was thoroughly refurbished in 2006, now features paintings by acclaimed artist John M Armleder, making it a feast not just for the palate, but for the eyes too. Closed Saturday and Sunday for three weeks in August.Hôtel Mandarin Oriental du Rhône, Quai Turrettini 1
Tel: (022) 909 0006.
Website: www.hoteldurhone.com
Price: $$-$$$
Business
Brasserie Lipp
Brasserie Lipp is a firm favourite with the local business community. Named after the renowned Parisian brasserie, this restaurant, located on the second floor of a chic shopping mall, transports diners to the heart of Paris with its black-jacketed waiters and typical brasserie ambience. Specialities include fresh oysters and southwestern French favourites, such as charcuterie and cassoulet.Rue de la Confédération 8
Tel: (022) 311 1011.
Website: www.brasserie-lipp.com
Price: $$
Chez Roberto
In spite of increasing competition, Roberto remains the top Italian restaurant in town, popular with the business community and habitués that have been dining here for a quarter of a century. The legendary Signor Roberto Carugati, with years of experience behind him, continues to produce superb dishes from all parts of Italy, including a spectacular fish risotto, served in a relaxing environment. Closed Saturday evening and all day Sunday.Rue Pierre-Fatio 10
Tel: (022) 311 8033.
Price: $$
La Perle du Lac
Situated in the Mon-Repos Park, overlooking Lake Geneva, La Perle du Lac has been serving French cuisine, fish and seafood specialities, such as lake perch fillets and osso bucco des lotillons (angler fish), as well as excellent Swiss wines, to world diplomats and the local business community since 1930. Perhaps best enjoyed in summer, the restaurant (closed Monday) boasts a charming open-air terrace and lush garden. It has modern but unobtrusive decor, with green walls and dark carpets, and banquet rooms are also available.Rue de Lausanne 128
Tel: (022) 909 1020.
Website: www.laperledulac.ch
Price: $$$
Le Chat Botté
Situated in the Hôtel Beau-Rivage, this restaurant serves excellent French cuisine with a contemporary note, and is popular for both pleasurable business lunches and romantic treats. It is of a classical, even nostalgic style, with gentle tones of pale yellow and pictures on the wall. Specialities include fresh red mullet in vinaigrette sauce or cutlets of fresh salmon fried with spices. Reservations are strongly recommended.Hôtel Beau-Rivage, Quai du Mont-Blanc 13
Tel: (022) 716 6920.
Website: www.beau-rivage.ch
Price: $$$
Trendy
La Demi-Lune
This trendy, friendly bar-restaurant, located in the picturesque Old Town, serves tapas and homemade hamburgers daily until 2330 and then serves refreshing cocktails until around 0100. La Demi-Lune is popular with a young crowd (a mix of students and young professionals), who enjoy the candlelit intimacy of this venue, enhanced by relaxing jazz. Open daily (until 0100 weekdays, until 0200 Friday and Saturday night).Rue Etienne-Dumont 3
Tel: (022) 312 1290.
Website: www.demilune.ch
Price: $-$$
Budget
Café Cuba
This Cuban bar-restaurant, decked out in Latino style with wooden tables and rich, warm tones, extends over three floors. On the menu are tapas snacks, a wide choice of specialities from Havana and cocktails (fiercely alcoholic and soft). For those that know how, a small dance floor allows diners to work off the calories, dancing to salsa rhythms. Popular dishes include tortilla, chili con carne or guacamole. Extremely popular with young and old alike, Café Cuba opens until 0100 during the week (until 0200 Friday and Saturday). Closed on Sunday.Place du Cirque 1
Tel: (022) 328 4260.
Website: www.cafecuba.ch
Price: $$
Chez Ma Cousine
There are now three Chez Ma Cousine restaurants in Geneva – this one, at Place du Bourg de Four, was the first one to open. Chez Ma Cousine is a fresh and trendy French bar-restaurant, with a bright, cheery yellow interior, offering excellent value for money and popular with students on a budget. It is also popular with lawyers on their lunchbreak as the lawcourts are nearby. Service is speedy, the atmosphere friendly and the single menu of grilled chicken, sauté potatoes and salad is reliably good. There is a choice of desserts, including chocolate mousse and tarte tatin. Wines may be sampled by the glass or by the bottle.Place du Bourg de Four 6
Tel: (022) 310 9696.
Website: www.chezmacousine.ch
Price: $
Le Mortimer
Always busy with a young, trendy crowd, Le Mortimer serves traditional French food and strong, aromatic coffees. Located in the heart of Geneva, the restaurant is set in a building dating from 1580 with a vaulted cellar. The interior is decorated with a wooden bar and tables, and there is also an attractive terrace, perfect for alfresco dining during the summer months. Specialities include baked lamb with potatoes, fresh fish, mixed salads and chocolate gateau. Closed Sunday.Place du Bourg-de-Forg 2
Tel: (022) 310 1398.
Price: $
Les Brasseurs
Les Brasseurs, located just opposite Cornavin station, is a convivial restaurant and the only place in Geneva to brew its own beer. Hugely popular with a young crowd, keen to try out the wide variety of blanche, blonde and ambrée beers on offer (by the three- or five-litre 'column'). They also serve German and Alsatian specialities such as sausage and onion flamenküche (Alsatian tart often topped with onions, mushrooms, ham and cream). The service is friendly, although it is best to arrive before 2130, at which time the venue starts to get crowded. Open daily until 0100 (until 0200 weekends, evenings only).Place de Cornavin 20
Tel: (022) 731 0206.
Website: www.les-brasseurs.ch
Price: $
Restaurant St Jean
The St Jean, formerly the Bleu Nuit, close to Place du Cirque, attracts an arty young crowd, with its lively atmosphere and good value food. French cuisine is served from Monday to Friday in this rustic restaurant, while at the weekends, Mexican food, such as guacamole and chili con carne, is on the menu. The restaurant is open late; closed Sunday.Rue du Vieux-Billard 4
Tel: (022) 328 3444.
Price: $
Personal Recommendations
A L'Olivier de Provence
Located in neighbouring Carouge, which has a village feel to it in spite of its proximity to Geneva, this charming, rustic Provençal restaurant has been going strong for some 60 years and is still on top form. The bistro section of the restaurant is a good budget option, with a cheaper and simpler menu. It also has a shaded terrace for alfresco dining in summer. Specialities such as sea bass, fresh salmon with sorrel, and in autumn, game dishes such as pheasant, rabbit and pigeon never disappoint. The restaurant is closed Saturday lunchtime and all day Sunday.Rue Jacques-Dalphin 13, Carouge
Tel: (022) 342 0450.
Website: www.olivierdeprovence.ch
Price: $$-$$$
Buffet de la Gare
It is worth taking a 20-minute detour from central Geneva to the Buffet de la Gare in Céligny, where chef Monsieur Choucq serves fine French cuisine in a 1920s bistro décor (closed Sunday and Monday). Dishes include fish from Lake Geneva or roasted lamb with herbs.Route de Founex 25, Céligny
Tel: (022) 776 2770.
Website: www.buffet-gare-celigny.ch
Price: $$$
La Favola
This intimate little Italian restaurant in the heart of the Old Town excels in fresh pasta and a friendly service. It has exposed beams, with parquet floor and traditional decor. Specialities include carpaccio Sicilian, gnocchi Alrleccio and risotto Ticinese. The restaurant is closed Saturday lunchtime and all day Monday.Rue Calvin 15
Tel: (022) 311 7437.
Website: www.lafavola.com
Price: $$-$$$
Le Patio
Situated on the left bank, Le Patio is a firm favourite with the business community and is closed on the weekends. The dishes, although ample, are light enough for the 'working lunch' not to send diners to sleep in the afternoon. Decorated in classic, rich burgundy tones, the restaurant has a good wine list and also offers wine by the glass. Specialities include fish couscous with steamed vegetables or lamb with rosemary.Boulevard Helvétique 19
Tel: (022) 736 6675.
Price: $$
Shopping
Geneva's exclusive shops centre around the perimeters of the Rues Basses – the chic Rue du Rhône, Rue de la Confédération, Rue du Marché and Rue de la Croix-d'Or. Watch and jewellery shops line these streets quite literally with gold. The main department stores can also be found here – Bon Génie, Rue du Marché 34 (website: www.bongenie-grieder.ch), Globus, Rue du Rhône 48 (website: www.globus.ch), and EPA, Rue de la Croix d'Or 4. General shopping hours are Monday to Friday 0830-1845 (Thursday until 1800) and Saturday 0800-1700.
For a lightweight gift, excellent Swiss chocolate is sold at Rhône, Rue de la Confédération 3, and at Martel, Rue du Marché 8, in Carouge. Meanwhile, for a stroll around the antiques quarter and art galleries, a visit to the Old Town and the St-Gervais and Pâquis districts is in order.
Geneva has many outdoor markets. The flower market on the Place du Molard and the clothes and book market on the Place de la Madeleine are open daily. Flea markets are held on Wednesday and Saturday, at the Plaine de Plainpalais (0800-1800). On Tuesday and Friday morning, the same spot is used for a colourful fruit and vegetable market (0800-1300). On Thursday, regional handicrafts are sold at the Place de la Fusterie (0800-1900).
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