Paris is divided by the Seine, with the northern section called the Right Bank and the smaller south known as the Left Bank - although today the latter tends to refer largely to the Latin Quarter and St-Germain.
There are four main and easily walkable areas for the first-timer to explore: Concorde - extending from the Louvre to the Arc de Triomphe; Marais to the east; Montmartre to the north; and the Latin Quarter and St-Germain.
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The only principal sights outside these areas are the Musée d'Orsay, on the central south bank, and the Eiffel Tower to the west on the south bank.
Eiffel Tower Built as a temporary structure for the 1889 Exposition Universelle, the Tour Eiffel survived to become the quintessential symbol of Paris. Best views are from the second level. Admission (by lift): €10.20 to the top, €7 for second level or €3.70 to the first. Climbing the stairs to the second level costs €3.30. Open until midnight from mid-June to August, until 11pm from September to mid-June; top level until 10.30pm.
Arc de Triomphe Begun by Napoleon in 1806 but not finished until 1836, the arch stands at the head of the Champs-Elysées. Climb the 280 steps to the top and you'll be rewarded with a superb view. Admission: €7. Open April-September until 11pm, October-March until 10.30pm.
The Louvre Even if you don't have the time to explore the interior, the buildings themselves are stunning - a former royal palace set at the head of the Tuileries gardens. Best time to go is late in the day, when the crowds have thinned. Admission: €7.50, which falls to €5 after 3pm and on Sunday. Under-18s free. Closed Tues; open until 9.45pm Mon and Wed, until 6pm Thurs-Sun (www.louvre.fr ).
Jardin des Tuileries A perfect example of a formal French garden, the Tuileries extend half-a-mile from the place de la Concorde to the Louvre. In among the trees, cafés beckon, promising shady respite from sightseeing.
Nôtre Dame Begun in 1160 and completed around 1345, this cathedral is one of the greatest gothic buildings in the world. Free guided tours in French at noon (Sat 2pm), and in English at noon on Wednesdays. Entrance is free, but a worthwhile tour of the towers costs €6, free for under-18s. Organ recitals (Sun 4pm) are an added bonus.
Sacré Coeur Dubbed by Zola "the basilica of the ridiculous", this church was built, controversially, as atonement for "crimes" of the Paris Communards in 1871. Perhaps its most impressive feature is the sweeping view of the city from its dome (€5).
Musée d'Orsay On the Left Bank facing the Tuileries, the Musée d'Orsay dazzles with its stunning who's who of Impressionism, with work by Monet, Manet, Renoir, Van Gogh, Cézanne, Degas and Gauguin among others. Closed Mon; adults €8.50, or €6.50 after 4.15pm. Under-18s free (www.musee-orsay.fr ).
Père-Lachaise Cemetery The shady avenues here provide one of the most fascinating and atmospheric walks in Paris. Among residents are Bizet, Balzac, Molière, Abélard and Héloïse, Chopin, Rossini, Jim Morrison, Sarah Bernhardt, Edith Piaf, Proust and Oscar Wilde, lying under a huge sculpture by Epstein. Get a €2 map from the newsagent or florist near the main entrance. Entrance free (www.pere-lachaise.com ).
Panthéon Inspired by the Pantheon in Rome, this was originally commissioned by Louis XV as a church to honour the city's patron saint, Geneviève, but converted during the Revolution into a secular temple honouring France's greatest sons and, so far, one daughter. Admission: €7 (www.paris-tourism.com/places/pantheon ).
The Seine Walk by it, cruise on it or just sit and watch it go by. The city's famed bateaux-mouches offer the most popular cruises; hour-long trips start at the Embarcadère du Pont de l'Alma on the Right Bank, departing every half-hour in the summer, 10am-10.30pm. Night cruises are particularly spectacular. €7 adults, €4 under-12s and over-60s; for the dinner cruises, €90-€125 for four courses including wines and service; jacket and tie required. Contact Bateaux-Mouches (00 331 42 25 96 10, www.bateaux-mouches.fr ) or Bateaux Parisiens (00 331 44 11 33 55 www.bateaux-parisiens.-com).
Boulevard St-Michel The Left Bank can be a bit of a tourist scrum, but no first visit to the city would be complete without a stroll down the "boule Mich" and a wander through the Latin Quarter. Well worth a visit are the medieval church of St Séverin, the Musée National du Moyen-Age, the Panthéon (see above) and the Jardin du Luxembourg. As you stroll south and east, the student atmosphere falls away as you enter into ultra-chic St-Germain, once home to impoverished writers but now rivalling the avenue Montaigne for designer boutiques.
The Moulin Rouge (00 331 53 09 82 82, www.moulinrouge.fr ) is the home of the cancan and a kitsch classic. It has regained much of its popularity following its adoption by Hollywood, so you'll have to book well ahead. Dinner and show, €135-€165; show only, €95 (9pm) or €85 (11pm). Similar venues include the Lido (00 331 40 76 56 10, www.lido.fr) and the Crazy Horse (000 331 47 23 32 32, www.lecrazy horseparis.com).
For bars and clubs, start in the Marais. Among many others, try Le B4 Café, rue Sainte-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie; Les Etages, rue Vielle-du-Temple; Étienne Marcel, rue Étienne Marcel: and Andy Wahloo, rue des Gravilliers. Then work your way over to the clubs of the République /Bastille - La Scène, rue des Taillandiers; La Gibus, rue du Faubourg-du-Temple; Nouveau Casino, rue Oberkampf; and La Fabrique, rue Faubourg-St-Antoine.
Don't miss the deparment stores. Still one of the best preserved jewels of the belle époque, La Samaritaine on rue de la Monnaie underwent a facelift last year, and one section has now been let out to the smart high-street shops. Don't miss the elaborate turquoise-and-gold wrought ironwork and mosaics around the glass roof; visit the top-floor café for a coffee and the view. On rue de Sèvres, Le Bon Marché is the oldest and probably still the most elegant of he city's big stores, and has also recently undergone extensive renovation. Men should head for the designer boutiques of the Balthazar section, while for women there are seven luxury boutiques ranging from Dior to Chanel on the ground floor. The superb Grande Epicerie food hall is in an adjacent building. Printemps, on boulevard Haussmann, has six floors of fabulous fashion for both men and women, including the largest beauty department in the world. Head for the terrace restaurant on the ninth floor, if only for the superb art nouveau cupola.
The Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen on avenue Porte de Clignancourt is probably the largest flea market in the world, with 10 miles of walkways. There are too many visitors here for there to be very many bargains, but it is still a fascinating hour or two's browse (Sat-Mon).
Established in 1882, La Tour d'Argent on quai de la Tournelle (00 331 43 54 23 31, www.tourdargent.com ) is probably Paris's most famous restaurant, and with good reason - not least because of its duck dishes and a magnificent view over the Seine. Dinner costs from €125 to €200, but lunch is more reasonable at €70.
Café de la Paix on blvd des Capucines (00 331 40 07 32 32) was the main restaurant of the Hotel de La Paix (now Le Grand), built by Napoleon III opposite the Opéra and designed by the very same Garnier; its stunning ceiling of bon vivant cupids has been declared an historical monument. "Discovery Menu" €37.
Le Pré Verre on rue Thenard (00 331 43 54 59 47) is one of the latest bistro hits of the Latin Quarter. The blackboard menu changes daily, but watch out for the ravioli stuffed with snails and roast suckling pig. Menu €24.
Ma Bourgogne, set in the arcades of the place des Vosges (00 331 42 78 44 64), is as good for people-watching as for its cuisine. Menu €32 (no credit cards).
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